Two good servos will effectively handle the ailerons quite well. I used Hitec 5925's in mine. I have since moved away from that brand, but they worked exceptionally well. The aileron slave struts end up quite long, and after experiencing a lot of flex using 4/40 wire for the struts i changed them out to carbon fiber rod and tip inserts from central Hobbies. Not the cheapest way, but they're stiff, strong, and the effort expended in building shouldn't be wasted by going cheap and experiencing a failure. Using only two servos for the ailerons will save about 4 ounces from an area that's behind the c/g. It matters a lot.

The flying wires at the tail should be considered mandatory. also insert wood dowel hardpoints for the attach points. Use a wood dowel that has a corresponding brass tube in the same size. Sharpen the end of the tube from the inside of the tube with an Exacto blade and use the tube to make clean cuts for the dowel. Removing the backbone from an old exacto saw blade will provide you with a tool to cut the dowel off flush with the surface of the horizontal and vertical stabs.

Bottom wing and horizopntal stab should be a zero incidence. The top wing works best with 1 to 1-1/2 degrees of negative incidence. The engine down thrust, depending on the engine size and type, should be between 2 and 3 degrees. Use 2 degrees for a gasser.

Do everything you can to fit the engine to the mount with the cowl in place before you set the box permanenty. It's a major pain to do, but you will be rewarded with an engine that's perfectly centered in the cowl. You may have to use some temporary sheeting around the nose of the plane to do this since it has to be done before the final sheeting is installed.