The only difference I can see is the weight in the wing. I haven't weighed the wing, but I would say that is where the extra weight is. This was the first F/glas fuse I built so I did a lot of experimenting. Pehaps that also added weight.

I did use two flight packs, one with bat. pack is in the tail. The other is in the nose. I wanted to keep some distance between them to prevent any glitching. I was concerned the wiring harness in the wing cross connected to the fuse would act as an antenna and cause a problem. That was the reason I used dual flight packs. One pack is for the fuse and does not electrically connect to the wing flight pack. Don't worry though if you forget to turn one on it won't fly. If the wing is on the plane won't taxi. If the fuse is on,, the engines won't power up. So build in dummy factor for me.

I would not use the sorgum (sp?) again for wing sheeting. I have had a delamination problem on both wing join points.
I slit the trailing edge of the wing and injected epoxy into the wing and resealed the wing sheet and so far it is holding. The problem occured where the end of the wing joiner tube ends on the center wing section. I made 1 hard landing on the first flight and this caused wing flex and therefore apparent shearing of the adhesive bond. Had I not caught this the wing could have failed in flight.

I also have a retract nose which could be weight. The flight pack in the tail is probably balanced by weight in the nose. If I removed the flight pack from the tail I probably could drop 1# on total weight by relocation.

The spray latex paint was also a first and I probably used too much paint and this also added weight. A better paint would have helped.

Yes I am planning to go to Mobile, but don't have the details on location. I just heard about it yesterday the scale event. I will publish more details. I am concerned that if there are strong cross winds close to the water I might not get to fly. The wing low method in cross winds doesn't give you much tolerance.