Hi,

I'm not sure my settings are either relevant or good, since I really messed up with them once, and then tried to fix'em. I have followed the advice from a previous post (main needle 3 turns out), and set the idle so that the opening is about 1mm wide (this is what the book says); then I set the third needle (the one on the rotary part) to two turns out.

I then tried to achieve a constant RPM when idle (by listening to the sound of the engine; one of my previous vehicles - real automobile, not RC - was fitted with a carburetor and I used to fix it myself, so I'm used to this a little bit); I think the goal is to keep the RPM as low as possible without stalling.

Next, I tried to adjust the third needle, so that the car will accelerate as fast as possible when going full throttle.

The main needle seems to be positioned right at three turns out, since the engine is no longer overheatins.

I don't have the car nearby (I'm in the office right now), but I'll note down the exact settings I'm using right now, and post them ASAP.

Also, I have noticed some drawbacks of the Winner Sport (after a couple of driving sessions) : first, the screws of the buffer fitting unit (part #182 on the Smartech diagram) are constantly getting un-screwed and I've lost a couple. Second, the damper springs seem way too soft, since they seem to lack the power to push back up the car. And finally, the clutch inside the 2 speed transmission always gets loose and must be fastened constantly (luckily, this can be done without taking it out)

The worst part is that I crashed the car into a sidewalk; frontal collision at full speed; the parts broken were the buffer fitting unit (part #182 on the exploded view, and #11439 in the catalog), and, believe it or not, the fuel tank (part #34039/#11303). Maybe this info will help you guys get some spares in advance, to avoid waiting for then after a crash.

Well... so much for now; I hope I haven't bored anyone with so much writing [8D]