Hi Guys.

Me thinks there are no such things as dumb questions -- any question is a good question if it helps one sole make one less mistake with an expensive chunk of glass composite stuff in the shape of a plane (and I have made my share).

Here is the full (and probably convoluted) approach I took:
1) Fortunately the garage floor is about as flat as flat as they come -- so I trust it! Could be a couple of mill out, but not more.
2) The first thing I am paranoid about is where to cut holes in the fuz for the wing tube. I first checked the tube in the wing sockets (and found the need for lots of sanding to get a smooth fit), and found (as best as you can measure/level) that the sockets in the wings were relatively aligned and if the tube sat square in the fuz (horizontal and vertical) the wings would be approx square to fuz (vertical and horizontal axes). Then I did the work in the photo Mark picked up. Square the fuz relative to the floor using the fin, then slowly file out the holes in the side of the fuz for the tube (initially using just the small rod instead of the tube) to make sure it sits parralel to the fuz (vertical and horizontal -- ruler to floor, string to fin/nose). I had a nasty experience with last expensive model where the marked lines/cutouts on the side of the fuz weren't in the right place -- and messy remedial action was needed.
3) As I got the holes big enough to put the tube through I did test with wings on, but without incidence pins or some form of retainer at the back at this stage I found that hard to be very accurate -- but it was close enough. I did the same with the stab tube at this stage as well. Neither were glued at this stage.
4) Knowing the wing tube hole was true to horizontal and vertical axes, I then marked the wing adjuster positions relative to the wing tube holes with them centred at about 0.3 degrees incidence relative to motor/firewall I had done earlier. Brians earlier post on this is a smart way to do it I will use next time (#186)!! Then I could locate the servo tray around the wing adjusers etc. and get on with that bit.
5) I then pushed ahead with pipe floor in three bits, pipe mounts and all the stuff at the bottom of the fuz that needed to go in before tube/servo tray. Then I put the servo tray in (as the way I have done it it plays the role of holding the fuz in shape at the back of the wing chord where you do get some movement -- and if you ever accidentally touch a wing tip on the ground passes the load through the whole wing structure rather than breaking holes in the fuz). It plays the role they use the carbon tube across the fuz for.
6) All this done I then went back and glued the wing and stab tubes -- with wings and stabs on -- and checked and double checked alignment relative to fin on horizontal and vertical axis. (See attached photo -- measured as close as I could (to +/- 1 mm).

How accurate is it? Within a couple of mill. There is some residual slop in the wing tube/retainer that goes with being able to slide it in and out. Whether this comes into play seems to have a bit to do with how much precision you put into sanding the shape of the root ribs of the wings as they match up to the fuz. If they aren't perfect, you will always get a little movement when you tighten the wing retaining bolts onto the convex fuz sides -- and mine aren't perfect yet (and are unlikely to ever be). Having the full width servo tray in place makes this a little easier as it holds the fuz solid.

Hope this helps at least one person make one less mistake.

And keep up the great work on building the build site Mark -- photos and matching text take lots of time -- but are well worth it!



.