Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

The rivet detail was easy yet time consuming. After you get all of the panel shapes in the right spot and scuff all the panels (thats the harder dirty part) you look closely at your reference for type of rivets (size, type). I found a metal mechanical pencil with the lead retracted made a perfect tool for small round rivets. I also used a series of brass tubes in various sizes for different types/sizes of rivets. I would place a strip of masking tape along the intended rivet line. The tape had markings for the spacing of the rivets, then I would simply apply light presses with the tube and make a dent. If the rivet spacing did not match the panel, you need to improvise the spacing. Ta Da...a rivets! If you mess one up or make it to deep, you can simply burnish it out. The post burnishing is good for softening the impressions and making a decent flush rivet as well. The softness is a good thing for this, yet a bad thing for hanger rash. It can be dented and scratched fairly easy. The repair is a simple re burnishing. Always use a slip sheet when burnishing.

The ScotchBrite process you do before the rivets, but only after all the FM is ALL down. It makes a big mess like graphite and it will hinder the adhesion if it gets under your FM. Keep your engine clear of the metal dust as well!. Tape off the intended panel and lightly brush a grain in one direction. Remove the tape and do the next panel, changing direction for optimal reflection/differentiation of the panels as the light hits them.

Then its on to painting and weathering with stains and worn paint (showing the FM underneath). I still need to do this part and a little goes a long way, so do not over do it.