Ok,

Fuel tubing is to stop the needle extension ratting against the cowl.

I need to support the nose as with the mount ive got (regular Hyde) the front of the engine would move far too much if i didnt plus you would wear out the two discs in the mount. Mounts such as Gator or Hyde ARI dont need this.

I have not used a wooden prop on a Dingo but its the right size so as long as the hub doesnt compress at all when you tighten it up im sure it would be fine. Not sure about the Model Technics 20/20. Again, ive not used it but a friend of mine has and the engine seemed happier on the Coolpower. Most pilots use 20% oil absolute minimum. Coolpower has got about 22% oil or so and lots more nitro and the engine definitly sounds better and goes better. CPLR's Cosmo fuel has about 23% oil i think. If you can i would recommend you use Coolpower or some other fuel with more oil from the start. Could always add more oil and nitro to your model technics but i dont know what oil is in it. It's probably advisable to use a thin, low viscosity oil and i would'nt touch castor with a barge pole.

The engine is still rich so the fuel consumption will decrease a wee bit. Also going to put on a bigger prop once ive put a gallon through it. Will probably go from 16X12 to a 16X13 or 17X12 (18X8 to run in, 18X10 or 19X8 thereafter for 3D). Basically you want a 18-22 oz main tank (use the foam clunk by the way, stops air getting to the header tank) and a 2oz header and you should get a 10min flight.

Also, you will need to clip your fuel line when filling to stop the engine flooding. Some pilots use surgical clips for this. I just bring a small length of the feed line out of the fuz (see pic) and then clip it with a bulldog clip when filling and immediately after you land.

Angus

ps yes, go for a 160! Best engine they've ever made