That's absolutely correct Jim.There are a lot of different types of paints out on the market that are NOT fuel proof unless they are top coated with some type of polyurethane type finish such as Varathane.Unfortunately,a lot of manufacturers of paints for the hobby business seem to be dropping a lot of the old standard paints that we use to once use with great success such as for example,K&B Epoxy paints and Black Barons line of paints which I use to use quite a lot.I would buy a pint of paint,thin it and spray it myself.The end finish was twenty times better than any off the shelf spray bomb.The problem with a lot of spray bomb type paints is that they have a very high percentage of thinner and a very low percentage of colour pigment in each can which means it takes more coats to cover.More coats means more chance of paint runs and negative reactions to the existing layers of paint that are already applied.If you read the can ,it will give you recommendations telling you to spray subsequent coats within so many minutes of each other or else you will have to wait like another 3 months before top coating again.If you don't follow this advice to the letter,you'll end up with one hell of wrinkley,gooey mess.The solvents in some of these paints react just like paint stripper if you use them improperly.Read the directions carefully and apply to the letter.To be safe,experiment a bit first in advance just so you are familiar with the paints,drying times and how they will react with one another.Better to screw up a sample piece than your actual floats right?After all is said and done,it really isn't as difficult as it sounds if you tackle the job knowing some basic facts first.Chalk up the experience as part of your gradual learning curve.You'll be pleasantly surprised to find out later how much of this knowledge about glassing and painting will come in handy down the road when you take on future building projects.Good luck finishing your floats.