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Old 12-17-2004 | 12:10 PM
  #19  
Tired Old Man
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From: Valley Springs, CA
Default RE: gas engine interference

The word "myths" speaks volumns. Thanks for the heads up

It's just that these same problems keep cropping up all the time, and the solution seems to be most often found in an equipment deficiency. In the earlier days of gas engines and giant scale, the available equipment was not nearly the quality of what we have today. The ignition systems were those that were found on the lawnmower the engine was originally installed on. The receivers were all manufactured and tuned to much lower standards than we now have. Hardware for connections were often loose and vibration prone due to different design standards, etc.

Sure, I agree completely that you can purchase new, off the shelf, products that from time to time have a defect, but it really doesn't happen all that often. Design defects are another matter altogether. But again, the interference problem will still most often be found in a connector that has been pulled a little too hard, a battery, receiver, or servo that has been through a crash or two, and not sent in for a check up, a switch or two that has been on upteen different aircraft, and so on.

Failure to adaquately secure nuts and bolts against vibration can be quite a little bugger as well. Ask TKG how often an "ignition problem" has been sent to the shop only to find nothing wrong with it, and later discovered to be a loose engine or muffler mount. With the exception of engines using a CM6 or smaller plugs, the use of a non-resistor plug that someone purchased cheap at the local hardware store, or took out of their weedeater, has caused more grief that a person can imagine. Look for an "R" in the part number.

The same problems occur with an engine/ignition combination that wasn't properly grounded, or the ground wire (if it has one) was loose or never connected. That's where the use of the shielded Bosch cap has worked out so well. It's design darn near eliminates the interference problem. But they do cost a little more so some go with the lesser quality plug wire and cap. Or worse, the unqualified will open up the ignition system in the attempt to convert the plug wire themselves.

The other side of the situation is where an engine and radio system had been operating properly and well, but suddenly becomes a problem. The answer will be found in what had changed from then to now. Was the plug removed and dropped, cracking the ceramic? Was the plug wire pulled off the plug with too much force, pulling it out of the ignition/magneto connection? Has the plug wire been cut by the cowl fitting too close? Has something loosened up causing a mechanical glitch? Is the engine running rough or missing all of a sudden due to an excessively rich oil mix? Is a digital servo getting ready to say goodbye? What about that old battery you've been using in the ignition (if it's not a magneto), is it taking and holding a full charge? Worse, are you trying to get too many flights on an ignition battery between charges? Did the isolation motor mounts that were used shake the plug wire off the engine?

Anyway, the above was meant to be informative and not critical. Looking at it all and I can easily understand why it would be viewed that way. I have to admit that I've been a little grumpy lately, which I'm sure was reflected in my prose[] Mea Culpa, and I apologise to those that were offended. But hopefully, some of it all helped.


Pat