One of the absolute great inventions in stunt is adjustable leadouts. Basically you want the leadouts close together and in the right place. If you have them far apart, like on most older plans, picture what happens when the airplane is basically suspended on one or the other leadout at full control, It yaws in or out from its level flight yaw. You can look around in Stuka Stunt Works Control Line Forum and find threads on leadout position, etc. There is a formula you can use. I basically hang the airplane from the leadouts and move them so I can see that it is hanging nose down just a little. Now, when I fly the airplane, I want to be looking straight down the wing. So I move the leadouts, no more than 1/8 at a time, until I achieve that. Then I assess how the airplane feels in overhead 8's. If the leadouts are too far back, it will get loose at the top of the circle; counterintuitive, but true.

You also want an adjustable tip weight box. I use steel BB's and start out with 30. I add or take out 5 at a time until I think it is right. Actually on my two Twisters, the first one, I glued a little plastic pill bottle with a snap-on top sticking out the tip rib. On the other. I drilled holes in pennies and bolted them on with a 4/40 bolt and blind nut. These days I would build a weight box.

On a Trixter, with liteply wing tip ribs, adjustable leadouts are easy to fabricate. Cut an accurate 1/8 wide slot from a little in front of the CG to at least a couple of inches back. Make your slider out of a piece of good 1/8 ply. Drill a hole and install a 4-40 blind nut. On either side, as close as you can manage. Drill holes lined up with the blind nut, for the leadout guide tubes. You can use grommets, pieces of 1/8 copper tubing, or 1/2 inch long pieces of the yellow plastic tubing which Perfect gives you for leadout guides in their leadout packages. Now cut the "slider" out of your piece of plywood. It should be @ 3/8 high, and maybe 1 in long with the three holes for blind nut and leadout guides in a row down the long axis.

The slider goes inside the tip rib with the tubes sticking out through the 1/8 slot. Take a 4/40 bolt with a flat washer and bolt the slider in from the outside. After you get the bolt through the blind nut, mess up the end threads so it can't shake loose and let the slider slide down inside the wing.

Obviously you are going to have to cut holes in the ribs so the lines won't hang up no matter where the slider is.

One could argue that on a early learning airplane, just do it like the plan as simple as possible. You can't do that much with it at your skill level, so what if it flies crappy? Well, that makes it just that much harder for you. On the other hand, If you make everything adjustable, and can get some knowledgeable help. your airplane can be made to fly really well, and will be much easier for you to fly. Also, if you have things adjustable, you can make little changes, not enough to make you crash, of course, and teach yourself a lot about how things work and what makes what happen.

Sorry to be so long winded; years of lecturing for 50 minutes, I suppose. Anyway, hope it helps.

Jim