Hand starting tip... if the prop is parallel to the ground as the engine enters compression, flip backwards pressing downward on the right hand blade. As the engine kicks, snap your hand away. (easy if you just use fingertips on the blade... when it kicks your fingers slip off and automatically snap out of the way. )

This has you handling the less sharp leading edge of the prop, instead of the sometimes knifelike trailing edge. (I sometimes use APC's as knives... to demonstrate just how sharp the are. )

The tradition of having the prop parallel to the ground when it enters compression comes from the desire to reduce the number of props you need to replace, and easier hand starting, by having the blades alighned where you can get the best flip action. This alignment is never wrong.

The idea of even having a heavy blade is bad. Ballance the prop by either lightly sanding the front of the heavy blade, or applying paint to the light tip. The heavy blade may partially act as a "harmonic ballancer", but only at one rpm, and usually thats down near idle. An unballanced prop at high rpm will shake things up in the aircraft much worse than failing to "compensate" for the piston. (which has already been compensated for in the construction of the modern engines...) The high frequency vibrations can lead to cracking loose glue joints... especially CA joints which are brittle.