Training gear must be on.
Find plenty of space "indoor" or super calm outdoor.
Limit your hover session to about 5 minutes and let the motors to cool down. Get the heat sink for both.
Before connect the battery, make sure the throttle trim and stick are at the lowest position, 3D swicth away from you.
And finally, once again:

The 2 terms being used on the all in one controller are similar to GAIN and PROPORTION on the other controller.
The GAIN or LIMIT will set the strength or sensitivity of how much the rudder response to the yaw movement, normally set at 90% and go down from there.
The PROPORTION or DELAY will dictate the amount of signal sending to the rudder control per unit time, again good starting point is 90%.

The DELAY should be set first, you want to set it so that the rudder speed is proportion to the rotor speed. If the heli is on the ground and the throttle is a lowest position, move the heli side to side by hand, if the tail spins you have to decrease the DELAY.
Then fly the heli and adjust the LIMIT, if the tail osscilates then the gain must be reduced the LIMIT but if you reduce it too much the nose will not stay put.

One manual suggests that you set both at 90% then go down from there if needed. On my Esky 3D, the gain stays around 85% (arrow points at 7 o'clock) and the proportion is about 75% (arrow points at 3 o'clock), this is with 1800 mAH lithium pack.

Look down, the rotor turns clockwise so the body would want to counteract by turning to the left (nose to the left that is), now come the rudder to help pulling the nose to the right (pushing the tail to the left that is). So if you need to trim the rudder to the left (nose moves to right when fly), which means the rudder has TOO MUCH power then you must LOWER the proprotion by turning the pot counter clockwise. If the tail oscillates, then the gain must be reduced (as mentioned above).

It is okay to have to adjust the trim on the TX, sometimes it changes with ambient temperature or the efficiency of the motor(s).