JT,

Actually, I do the deck a little differently. I butt-glue all my sheeting together into one piece, sand it smooth on one side and apply it onto the deck, working from one side of the fuse to the other. When I do this, I don't glue it to the stringers or formers at all.

I only glue the deck sheeting around it's perimiter, starting down the full length of the deck on one side, then wrap it on over, gluing the two ends as I go, and finally gluing it down to the opposite side, down the full length. This produces a more natural curve without any flat spots from tacking it to the stringers & formers. Of course it requires that you have pre-cut and pre-curved the assembled sheet before gluing it down.

Also, I add one additional stringer down each side, only this stringer is cut into sections that go "between" the formers instead of "on top" of them. This gives me a flat surface to glue my sheeting to down each side of the fuse. Offset them back from the fuse side 1/16 to allow for the sheeting to fit flush (notch the formers too).

As for clipping the wing by one bay... I kinda wish I had done that now, it's got more than enough wing. However, I do get a very quick roll rate on high rates even with the stock wing length. Probably would be better one bay shorter, but it's no big deal either way.

As for the cowl, I get 2 or 3 e-mails every day asking me to "detail" my steps in doing this and other mods. I've gradually built up a "canned" response in the form of about two pages of text instructions that I can send back quickly. I think I'll go ahead and post that "document" to my 4* web site today and will let you know when it's up.

Neo