But I'm busier than a...well dang there is always something..

I've found that the 2 best mods are exhaust duration and crank closing. You really, really have to run a pipe for any of the mods to work well. But then a pipe is the easiest mod of all.

If you don't know how to use a degree wheel, that is a setback..they are actually very easy to use and cheap, but that is the only way to measure the timing.

Check your exhaust duration..most stock sport engines are 148 degrees or so..increase this to 165 degrees and your engine will still idle fine and get a good 1K gain (as long as you are using a tuned exhaust..it using stock exhaust you just spew raw fuel out the exhaust).

As for the crank closing..go easy here..not more than 5 degrees more than stock, and you need to be turning over 16~17K for this to make much difference.

I think the Leo is chrome...look at the sleeve..if it is brass on the outside and bright white shiney on the inside, it is chrome..this is good. If it is a kinda dull silver inside and out it is nickle, and you may or may not be able to modify the ports without peeling. I've done some nickle engines, but it was before the peelinf phenomenom started and I didn't know any better...I wouldn't risk it again.

So here is a very long post that just barely touches the surface of what is involved...and I give my disclaimer that you had better be ready to buy a new piston/liner set if you attempt any of these mods..if it don't work then it will most likely be scrap.

So keep us informed of your progress...and if you need any more info let us know...