All BME Engines are test-run before shipping. This is probably where they set the needles on the carburetor to assure it ran properly at their altitude of about 500' ASL. I'd advise just starting the engine and adjusting the carburetor from there. There are no 'Factory' Settings on an engine like this, since the engines the carburetor was originally intended for, basically weedie and chainsaw engines, had much milder porting and ran in a totally different manner. The BME110 has pretty radical porting, and this affects carburetor adjustment. I've seen everything from 1/2-1 1/8 on the low needle and 1-2 1/4 on the high needle, depending on the particular carb (even with the same exact carb type on the same engine) EVERY engine should have the carburetor 'dialed in' before it is flown, and you should run about 1/2 gallon of fuel through the BME to assure everything is working properly and that you have the mixture needles set before you ever fly with the engine.

By the same token, though, I just pulled a 110 off a plane, and it had canister exhausts on it. Needles were 3/4 on the low side, and 1 1/4 on the high side. If you feel that your needles are incorrect, I'd recommend trying the settings I just gave you .. 3/4 low, 1 1/4 high, and going from there. Remember to keep the engine slightly rich on the top end, but not slobbery rich, and to set the low end for a clean, but transition-able idle. Run 50:1 ashless oil for break-in of about 8-10 gallons, then I highly recommend switching to Amsoil Sabre 100:1 oil mixed at 80:1 ratio for the rest of the engines life.

Remember to check your sparkplug color to ascertain the proper mixture. You want a light tan colored center electrode and insulator. Pale-white is too lean, and anything darker than medium grey/brown is too rich. Check this after about an hours running time, and periodically thereafter. You will find that the engine will need to be leaned slightly as it loosens up and breaks in.

A good Break-in prop is the 27-10 BME prop, or a comparably sized Menz-s, Bambula, or other wooden 'wide blade' prop of similar design. You can also start off with the 28-10 Mejzlik CF prop, and never take it off the engine. Shoot for a prop that puts the engine in the 6300-6600 rpm range while running. All the props I listed will do so, with the Menz-s (actually a 26.5 inch diameter prop) spinning in the 6600+ range usually, and the Mejzlik at about 6400 or so. I've run props up to the 29-10 Mejzlik on these engines, with good results, but the 28 inch diameter range, especially the Biela or Mejzlik props, will probably get you the best performance overall.

Hope this helps.