Actually the servo saver has a story to it. The stock one was utter crap, it was weak and had tons of slop. I bought a kimbrough large one and it was too big, the chassis was in the way, so I bought a medium sized one. I used it for a few runs and pulled it aside and noticed on the car it was extremely weak and would not realign the wheels. So I just filled it up with CA to lock it. The inner steering linkage has so much slop and bendyness to it, but more bendyness than slop, it won't harm the steering servo to even rock a solid horn on it. I was amazed at the low speed control, it was almost unreal how it turned. So in the end, just use a horn that came with your servo, it will be more cost efficient and better.

The only slop the linkage has is the should bolted center rod, which you can replace with some turn buckles and ball cups. Though if you get the powerline steering package you should use a servo saver.

If you notice the rear upper links are crooked. I put RPM rustler rear hubs on it and had to mount the studs in the back. Those powerline ones didn't look tough enough.

I broke a C hub while running today, I rammed into a heating oil cap thing in the side of my yard, the wheel busted off it's joints and was flailing all over as the car cartwheeled. I lost a machine bolt and its little spacer, so I used a tamiya standard self tapping screw to fix it. Should I get the C hub aluminum, or the steering block?