Bill,
I am somewhat new to the "Universe" but have been flying, building, and teaching for nearly 20 years. I do recommend the VMAR planes with a couple of side notes and highly recommend the VMAX engines that www.richmondrc.com sells with these planes, especially as a combo deal. For the money, you just can't beat it. Several people will complain about the covering that sags (which it does) but hit it with a heat gun and it's tight again. If you have to repair any covering, it unfortunately is nearly impossible to match the detail that's incorporated in their covering. But if you don't like it, rip the covering off and re-cover it. I've had issues with the fuel tanks that come with them. Too thin and break easily, even while simply installing them! The rest of it looks great. They fly decent and scale looks are very nice. They are really good planes for beginners to build because they aren't complicated and a lot of the parts are already installed. Yes, there are a few flaws here and there. You're buying something that can be built in as little as the 4 hours it took to build the last Mustang I bought from them. The terms ARF and quality sort of cancel each other out if you're looking for a precision built time piece. Not for $150 anyway.
As far as the VMAX engines go, I now have 5 of them. I also have a couple of YS .45s, OS FX .46s, OS .40 FPs, OS .40 LAs, Manum .40s, Magnum .91s, and a bunch of brushless electric stuff. I'd say I have a pretty thorough understanding of engines and rate the VMAX .46s very high, even above the OS FX and AX .46! First and foremost because of performance. They idle at less than 500 RPMs, consistently! The top end RPM with a 10X7 prop and 15% fuel is 15K RPM. Most of the time I can finger start them (unless cold or very hot). The only downside I have found with this engine is that it won't do 3D very well. Turning a 12X4 prop, it just doesn't hit the RPMs quick enough to suddenly hang off the prop. I'll also say the breaking in of this engine isn't as easy as some other engines. Have had a difficult time getting it to turn over on it's first few starts. The engine is very tight when new and takes a few runs before it becomes easy. After an hour on it though, it will start like a champ. Now check the price. When purchased with an ARF from them, $50 gets you an engine that I think is slightly superior to the OS equivelant. If you don't get the ARF and buy it outright, it's $70. How much is that OS? $115!
As far as other postings on this subject, I'm very disappointed in some of the advice given. Most RC engines will run fine if you know what you're doing and if there aren't any flaws in the engine itself. It sounds like several people have bought bushing engines like the .40 LA and FP and Magnum .40 GPs and said that they're gutless. What are you guys putting these things in? .40 size aerobatic planes? They are designed as an entry level trainer engine to go on planes that are no heavier than 5 pounds! In comparison, are you guys putting VW engines in Corvettes and saying the engines are lousy? That's exactly what some of you sound like. You have to know the application these engines are designed for. Yes, I've come across an engine or two that wouldn't run right but every one of them have been able to be taken apart and problem located in the maunufacturing, a flaw in a part (crack or whatever), or something that was done by the owner like a busted needle valve. 9 times out of 10 it ends up either being a fuel contaminant, crap in the carb/needle ports, leak in the fuel or pressure tubing, or bad glow plugs. The other thing to keep in mind while you're bashing the manufacturers, have you contacted the manufacturers about bad engines? Most have warrantees that cover bad engines for at least 90 days and some for more than a year!
Good luck and welcome back to the hobby!
And the rest of you, relax and lighten up! Such harsh words for a fun hobby! Sheeesh!

Oneflyrn