Hi Marcel,

oooopss!

Easily done on your first model. If the top section is to be covered in tissue/fabric, then you are best to glue some thin strips along the top of the ribs, from the top spar to the trailing edge, using aliphatic or PVA glue or something that will sand easily; then cut these back again until they are flush with the trailing edge (using as long as a sanding block as possible, allowing several ribs to be filed at the same time). Make sure you don't scallop the t/e between ribs.

If the top is to be sheeted, then the recess may be of value allowing a flush finish to the trailing edge.

Either way, the bottom just needs sanding, taking care to match the correct curvature if any.

For future reference, when pinning the timbers to the building board, always pack the trailing edge up to the correct height, remembering to extend the packing to support the ribs as well, but I guess you know that now!

Wings are critical, so any warp could be disasterous, particularly when reducing speed to land, as a phenomenum called 'tip stalling' could well occur, this is when the angle of attack to the airflow of the wing tip is higher than that of the rest of the wing, and the flow of air over the tip is interupted, allowing the tip to drop, or stall, casusing the plane to roll, usually into the ground!

Keep the whole wing as straight as possible, and if anything, allow the wing tip to point at a slightly lower angle of attack to the airflow than the rest of the wing which will help eliminate the tip stall.

Not knowing the model, I can't say much more, other than standard advice; keep behind of C of G as light as possible, otherwise you will end up puttting weight in the front just to balance the plane, remember for best flight, build it light.

Mark