I've never had any difficulty with Dubro ball links, but you have to remember to put a drop of threadlock on the retaining nut. On my profiles (all planes, for that matter) I use the ball links on all surfaces other than pull/pull. For control horns I cut my own out of phenolic sheet from Aircraft Spruce, and epoxy them into the surfaces. If your UCD is finished, it's a little late for phenolic horns... but, next time. For pushrods I make mine up from CF rod from darrolcady.com, but I use JB Weld for fixing the steel ends into the CF rods. Darrol recommends rubberized CA, but I have found that to be less than totally reliable.

Central Hobbies also has CF pushrod components, which I'm sure are fine, but a little pricier than Darrol Cady. Central also has the MK ball bearing control horns, which are very nice, maybe worth investing in since they are practically indestructible, but to me they're a bit much for a 3D funfly.

The MK stuff is metric sized, Dubro is SAE sizes, which to me is more convenient.

On very short linkages, ailerons and tail-servo elevators, you can probably get away with 2-56 threaded rod, which is easier to cut to size than making up CF rods. However the 2-56 threaded rod will bend if you bang your tailfeathers against something. You could go 4-40 ball links and 4-40 threaded rod, but that puts a little more tailweight than I like to carry on a smaller plane. But for 60 size and up, 4-40 threaded rod is quick and easy to work with for short rods. If you have money to burn, the Hangar 9 titaniums are the ultimate short rods. With opposing threaded ends, you can set your linkage to a gnat's eyebrow without all the disconnecting/reconnecting.