Do'n a great job so far. I find it hard to build and stop and document.

Just to add a log on the fire, ref post #2 from excap. I've been teaching on LT 40's for 10 years now. I've seen them built by experts and 9 year olds. Even had one show up at the field with the entire fuselage held together by the covering, because he didn't read the step where you're supposed to glue the whole thing together.

But, in my opinion.

You do not need to add aditional stock to hold the horizontal stab on. I've never seen one break off under any conditions when built as stock.

The triangular stock at the base of the vertical fin help if you can't make a good joint. Kinda wise design on SIGs part in that if you flip over on the back the fin ususally snaps off rather than doing more damage to the airplane. But this one is a 50-50.

The gear that comes with the kit is nice and soft. Frankly it's mushy and it bends. But the flip side is that you can easily bend it back to the original shape. And it absorbs the energy of those first hard landings. If you keep your Kadet, then upgrade the gear as post #2 suggests. You may have to beef up the MLG contact area to carry the loads of the less flexible gear. (Yes, I've seen modded gear tear the bottom out of the Kadet.)

Another possible weak area in the kit is the elevator push rod may be too long. In some planes it flexes. This is critical in recovering from a dive. I've seen two planes lost due to lack of up elevator. The cable flexed instead of pushed. Suggest you "trap" the rudder and elevator tubes between two popsicle sticks glued to the frame halfway between the servos and the tail. Just a little insurance before you cover it all up.

A great time saver is once the wing is lined up where you want it to be, add four 1/4 x 1/4 x 1 or 2 inch blocks on the lower wing skin where it touches the inside of the fuselage. These insure positive alighnment every time you drop the wing on. Saves some retrimming everytime you fly. Of course the harder solution to the same problem is a dowl pin in the front of the wing and a hold down screw(s) in the back as found on the ARF Kadet. To add the blocks, install the finished wing on the fuselage and get the alighnment correct. Draw a fine line on the lower surface of the wing at the OUTSIDE of the fuselage. Remove the wing and draw a parallel line to the first one where the inside of the fuselage would be. Remove just enough covering to allow the wood blocks to have good contact to the wing skins. If not done already, iron down the covering around these new holes. now glue the 1/4 square blocks down and either monocoat them or seal with glue. Voila, positive allignment.