Hi Mike,

First, my apologies for not getting into this thread right away. My PC got nailed with a nasty virus and I had to spend a few days trying to figure out how to kill it... Had to stay off the net for fears of my credit card info and logins going who knows were...[>:]

Anyway, down to business now.

The suggestion of watching the small red LED on top of the valve is the correct action for diagnosing the source of the problem. Here are a few scenarios to consider...

- If the LED doesn't go on and you have a volt meter handy, I'd recommend checking the output as mentioned earlier. When disconnected from the valve and hooked up to my volt meter, the output from the solenoid drive lead is around 8V, dropping to around 6V when the starter motor is engaged and drawing current. I'm running a Duralite Plus 7.4V Li-Ion pack so the #'s may be slightly more or less depending on your pack's specifications and charge status. The solenoid is rated for a nominal voltage of 6V, but +/- a bit won't hurt it in the limited use they get with micro turbines. If the lead is supplying voltage and the LED stays off, either you've got a bad contact somewhere in the lead/valve or the valve itself is toast.

- If the light goes on and the engine still doesn't start, disconnect the exhaust side of the valve and initiate a start sequence with the canister charged or an off-board fuel source plugged into the check valve. The engine should spin up and the glow should activate but nothing else will happen since there's no start fuel getting to the combustion chamber. (please do this is a well ventilated area) You should be able to hear and feel the start fuel exiting the valve. If you can't detect any flow, either the valve is faulty or there is a blockage/kink in the line prior to the valve.

- If the red LED turns on and the above test proves the solenoid is functioning, check further down stream of the valve to see if you can find a blockage, kink, or a leak in the line. You may even want to pull the front cover off the engine to check those lines also; just be careful not to disturb the RPM sensor. (Warning: taking off the cover will not void your warrantee, but damage to the sensor will not be covered)

- If start fuel is definitely getting to the engine and failing to ignite, it may be a propane pressure problem or a lack of glow voltage / glow element exposure.

Hopefully one of these will shed light on the problem. Please let us know what you find out.


Now the workaround... If you're at a jet rally and you are in a pinch, the engine can still be started. I'd disconnect the solenoid valve all together and remove it from the aircraft. The ECU does not detect the presence of the solenoid... Use a check or ball valve in place of the solenoid and plug your off-board start fuel source into the inlet. If using a trigger valve, initiate flow, start the run sequence with the TX or data terminal, then watch the EGT throughout the start-up sequence. Try to limit the start fuel flow such that you observe and EGT in the range of 110C to 160C until kerosene is flowing. That range should be rather easy to maintain. The ECU needs to see at least 100C before it allows the fuel pump to start ramping up. Keep the start fuel flowing until the engine hits 30K, then gradually turn it off (before the 35K mark if possible) The solenoid normally shuts off the flow between 30K and 32K. (turn off the ball valve off if that's what you've used in place of the solenoid) Disconnect the start fuel source and go fly. The check/ball valve should stay onboard and prevent any back flow. One warning though: as mentioned earlier, make sure the off board source only provides gaseous start fuel. Powermax cans will need to be inverted to achieve this.

Hope this helps!
Kelly

PS: John S, thanks for the kind words of encouragement!