I'm building the new Yellow Giles G 300/120 right now. This bird is designed for only one elevator servo. 2 servos can be put in the tail depending on the weight needed for balance if any, and what happens when I check it at the CG. If the idea of using 2 servos doesn't work out because of too much weight needed to balance it at the CG, then I plan to use the MKD dual elevator Bellcrank and one carbon fiber rod with 4/40 treaded titanium end inserts. available from [url]www.centralhobbies.com. I'll use one 180 in oz servo in the tray as suggested in the plans. I measured the diameter of the hole for the fuel tank and created center lines from those points out on the firewall. The best thing to do is follow the instructions. Build the entire wing first, and put it on for a moment, then place the engine already installed on the mount, on the firewall and put the cowl on and let the cowl ears seat on the leading edge of the wing as shown. Then, put the spinner backplate on and center it with the hole in in the cowl and then mark the mount holes using a "Great planes dead center engine mount hole locator" or try to trace the mount. The firewall already has the correct amount of right thrust built in. Therefore, you should see how the spinner backplate will be closer to the cowl on the right side. You may find that the engine may not mount exactly center. I'm not sure yet, I haven't gotten up to this point yet. I'm doing allot of mind planning on this as I go along.
OK, I'm editing this as I continue. I dry fitted the rudder trailing edge and tail feathers and see that the fiberglass vertical fin for the rudder, overlaps the the trailing edge for the rudder. This will have to shaved along the edges of the bevel end on both sides from top to bottom. I'll apply the red monocote first, and also trim it to the bevel ends on both sides, to give the gluing area needed. The only thing I'm not too crazy about is that there isn't much meat on the stabilizer saddle at the tail. the sides of the fuse are only 1/4" thick. I might make a shelf out of 1/4 light sheet balsa or use 1/4 or 1/2 triangle stock, and add it in the tail right under the stab in the saddle for more gluing area and a stronger bond. There is an area right under the stab covered with yellow covering that can be removed and replaced,so to get in and add more glue to the underside of the stab. I might make the forward side of the rudder trailing edge 1/4" thicker after gluing it in, from the top of the tail at that point to the top of the trailing edge on the forward side. I may do this for more gluing area for the fiberglass vertical fin and make a stronger fin at the trailing edge.
I'm not forgetting about the weight factor in the tail. these extra steps will depend on what happens at the CG. I'll dry fit everything I can before making a move.
Allot of times these ARF's are more work then you think. I always improvise wherever I think needed.
Ok, I installed the engine and you don't go by center lines in the box. You must follow the directions to the letter, and get your spinner backplate centered with the hole. Engine mount location will depend on engine and mount used. The measurement they give you in the plan to set the prop hub 4 15/16 from the firewall is a BIG MISTAKE!! That depends on engine used. I mounted the wing and put the cowl on and let the cowl ears lean up against the leading edge of the wing as shown in the plan. I took a mesurement from the firewall to the prop hub hole and I see 6". I added 1/8" for more clearence. I mounted the OS 160 FX and it looks good. I got a perfect fit on centering the backplate with the hole, with the cowl square. that's the important thing. I have a good friend who just built a 33% cap, His instructions were the same as in this kit. His bird flys great!
To be continued.
Anyone else building this new bird? Please share your thoughts and findings.