Kieth and others,

I have used the Bob Noll methods and variations of it. Make your rudder post insert and have it dry fitted in the fuse. Hold in place with masking tape Use a Great Planes centering marker and make a scribe mark in the post insert. This is a great tool for marking aileron and elevator hing lines on tapering sufaces aslo.

Then use the Bob Noll method of squaring up the fuse to the table. Center line on table and a perpendicular line to that at the stab line area. Use a large square to get the fuse perpedicular to the table by lining it up on the scribe mark in the rudder post insert and the perpendicular line on the table. Doesnt matter if there is rake in the rudder post if the square is on the table lines. Make sure the fuse is held firmly to the table with bungy's and blocks. Now you are ready to set the stab. Remove the rudder post insert and set the stab in position, shimming to get it square in the fuse You now use the table as reference points to setting the stab. A pair of adjustable holders to keep the stab in place are needed here. Using a hiegth gage to reference the leading and trailing edge. Then use the Bob Noll measuring rods to set the stab square to the fuse.

Better yet.... just build one of Buddy Bramers laser alignment tables. (Like I even have time to build airplanes heh! heh!)

Some people set the wing first. I find setting the stab first easier to keep things square. Then set the wing paralell to the stab. It is easier to sight from the back to align the stab and wing. This is all info I have acumalated from others and some have different and varing methods depending on thier shop setup.

I will take some photos of this method and post them here along with some photo's of my home made tools that most anyone can make with general shop tools.

Wayne Galligan