ORIGINAL: Reverse_Sensing
Demon - do you seal the paint after applied to the econokote?
If the paint used is not fuel proof, then yes it gets a sealing coat of clear. I've used Krylon
Acrylic Clear (both Satin and Gloss), Pactra Formula U flat clear polyurethane, Top Flite LustreKote Flat Clear and Cheveron flat clear. The Pactra Formula U and Cheveron flat clear paints appear to be no longer produced. The Top Flite LustreKote paints can attack plastics (such as canopies), so be careful using it. The Krylon
Acrylic Clears are the least expensive, but the satin does not give a 'dead flat' finish.
ORIGINAL: Reverse_Sensing
What kind of paint do you guys use?
Depends. It is best to avoid multiple coats of paint to keep weight down. No primer, just apply the paint directly to the covering. For camo colors the cheap way is to use
gloss Rustolium colors (not their flats or metalics). This gives a durable fuel proof finish, but is glossy (see the Hellcat). For a serious camo scheme, Testors Model Master paints shot on through an airbrush is best. This finish must be fuel proofed with a clear coat (see the Hurricane). But there are a lot of variations, so use your imagination and good sense. The P-47 pictured was covered with OD colored packing tape, then camoed with Rustolium gray. I use sign vinyl (same as "trim sheet" and available from Harbor Sales linked above) for trim and markings - including the Invasion Stripes on the P-47.
ORIGINAL: Reverse_Sensing
As far as engines go, what manufacturer or type would you guys recommend? I know those OS .25 FX are awesome engines, the whole FX lineup is great. What about Norvel .25 plain bearing engine that is offered in the combo deal with JK Aerotech? Have you two had any experience or luck with that engine?
The Norvel engines have proven to be inconsistant in quality and performance. Some folks swear by them, others refuse to use them anymore (I fall into the latter group). IMHO, the best .25 combat engine is the OS.25FX.
HTH,
D