ORIGINAL: Hunter850
.......I put some of the foam on the camera mount and will give it a try when the wind stops.
What type of foam are you using? I hope it works. Try to use that weatherstripping type foam that is soft and spongy but dense and firm and about 1/4" thick before it's compressed. The great thing about that particular kind is that it conforms so well when compressed and it has an adhesive side to help stick to the inside of the ball joint. You can find this stuff in rolls at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.. The other type that has a slight rough texture is too porous because of the larger cells and will compress too much and not provide the proper isolation.
ORIGINAL: Hunter850
..........I checked my IR sensors and they are all equal and in line with the horizon.
Well, the ones in the rear are just ever so slightly angled downard. I've seen them that way on other DFs too.
ORIGINAL: Hunter850
.......I like your lighting systems. I used tire flys from radio shack. They weigh in at 8 grams each and come in white, red and green. With fresh batteries they work very well but they are only alkaline so don't last long. Keep us posted on your nav light systems.
Thanks! 
They are very visible in the day or at night, especially at night as you saw at the stadium. Do yours have a solid option or do they blink only? I think it looks cool to blink but at a distance and with altitude, I need solid lights so there is no delay. If you have blinkers, you are only seeing half the light transmitted and that is delayed even more when at a distance or at altitude. My tail strobe is only for a reference of the tail's position and is really the only thing noticable at 1000 ft in the night sky directly overhead. You know where it is because stars don't blink like that. I would highly recommend getting some high intensity lights like the ones I use. You won't regret it! These things don't glow, they pierce and last for a long time on two button cells. I will save even more when I get my custom Lipoly button cell circuit built. An Energizer CR2016 two pack is about $4 so the rechargables will be well worth it. 
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Do you have front and rear lghts? It's important that you have them as far apart as possible because at a distance and from a profile, that's what gives you a visual reference of what's the front and what's the rear. The closer they are together, they look like one light at a distance. That's why I use a tail strobe and different colors.
ORIGINAL: Hunter850
..........How long have you been flying the DF? You have some good flying abilities. I still am only flying tail in but I can manover pretty good this way.
I have been flying for about 6 weeks now. Since day one, I have only flown nose in. It's the easiest for me. It looks like 1videoman1 and I are the only ones that prefer that. What's even more interesting is that we both work in the production industry. I love doing corkscrew take offs like the one at the stadium. I love it when real helos do that and it looks coooool when the DF does it!
ORIGINAL: Hunter850
..........I am surprised you haven't gone to CF blades. They are excellent. I did however have to make the spacer that goes underneath of the blade longer back about 3/8". The blades were touching the support arms at times which I didn't like especially in a bit o wind.
Oh, I am definitely going to try a set. I am so tired of losing rotors because of clipping the frame in flight. I thought it was just me at first. I am so glad I found this thread to share all of these issues and find fixes for them! It is great therapy for the frustrations that I have gone through. There are just too many characteristics that are not covered with any literature included with this helo. Until I get a set of CF blades, I am trying the packing tape method. It's not broken blades that are killing me as much as the extensive damage to the more expensive parts and labor intensive repairs because of these blades breaking! [:@][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]