Either making an extra slot on the honeycomb template, or by marking it and using a band saw, make the cut for the false rib. It should run from just behind the wing tube all the way out of the LE.

Place the core on one half of the shuck. Mark the line following the wing spars. These are 1/8" wide, 2 per side.

The best way I know to do this is by using a router attachment on a dremel set at the depth of the spar. Using the edge of a level, run the router down the core cutting a perfectly straight 1/8" slot.

Flip over and repeat on the other side.

Now cut an oversized square of 1/8" lite ply, about 2" wide. Lay it into the false rib slot, and insert the wing tube. Bump it up against the piece of wood and press and turn. This should make a barely visible mark when you remove the piece.

Now using a 7/8" hole saw, cut the hole in the false rib for the wing tube. Slide your wing tube socket through this hole and be sure it passes through without too much friction.

Place the rib back in place, and insert the socket into the wing, through teh hole to locate the false rib. Trace the outline with a sharpie. Remove the piece and trim just larger than the outline.

Using polyurethane glue, apply a thin layer to the false rib on each side. If it fits tightly in it's slot, you're good to go. if it's a little loose, spray a fine mist of water on the glue before installing the piece. This will cause it to foam and fill the cracks.

Put the false rib in position, and insert the tube again to make sure you don't have alignment problems later. if you wish, you can glue the socket in at this point with a thin application of laminating resin. I usually wait until after the cores are sheeted and capped (just to make sure I don't waste a socket if it comes out defective). So far, I'm batting 1000 on that one

After the glue dries, use a long sanding block and CAREFULLY sand the false rib flush with the core. Go slow and take your time here.