Laser 1.80? I see you're not holding back on the quality. That helps guide this thread. You're right, we don't want a 2 mp blip cam.
I don't know what a good camera would be for your application. There are probably 20 or more that would do the job just fine. You need it small and it needs to be able to get close enough to the window to see out well. The closer the camera lens is to the window the better results you will get. You won't notice a difference if the window is in the shade, but if the sun is bouncing in there it will reflect images from the camera front to the back side of the window and interfere with the shot. Closer is better but with that curve starting up around the turtle deck you'll just have to do what you can to measure out your space and decide what will best fit.
You can go to a camera store and start looking them over. You can still have the camera mounted inverted or at a 90 degree angle. Software will allow you to rotate it if you need to. If for scale reasons you can't do that, you'll just have to find one that's going to fit.
Research ways of powering the camera and accessing the shots. It might be a pain to pull the camera out unless you build a removable cockpit assembly to reach into the fuselage from there.
Vibration will be the biggest issue. The 4 strokers fit in that category of low frequency high amplitude. That’s the vibration that takes the most work to get rid of. Your application is not as bad as helicopter though. The difference is and where your tough part will be is how to make a really easy to access camera, in a vibration mount, buried in a fuselage. You do have your work cut out that’s for sure but I think it can be done. Read this article.
http://www.hicam.com.au/art_vib.htm
You do not want a sugar cube. I recommend the latex foam rubber for soft mounts. It has excellent elastomeric properties. You need a material that’s kind of fluid in its properties but will still rebound as fast as you engine vibration. Mount the camera to a wooden plate of some sort that extends beyond all 4 corners. Keep the back of the camera as close as possible to the axis of soft mounting. You don't want the camera to be on a mount where there is a long lever arm from the soft material and the sensor. This will compound the issue. Just keep the mount very low profile and you should be OK.
Only use a small amount of that foam on each corner. I build my mount with a channel that is large enough that when I slide a camera mount into it, there is enough room for a layer of foam inside the channel (C channel) to surround the mounting plate. The more material you use, or the tighter you pack it in, the less effective it will be in a light camera. You have to work with the inertia of the camera you buy. Or make you mount heavier.
Dan