ORIGINAL: rainedav
Thanks, 8178. I like using the Super 77 paper pattern method to cut parts. I get get them very accurate and the paper prevents delicate parts from breaking until time to use them. A bit of thinner and the paper curls right off. This thing is going together fast. The fuse is glued up and with its 3/16" slab top and right angle formers it built very straight and true; a brilliantly simply design. The stab is also done. It's 1/8" x 3/38" framework sheeted with 1/16" so it equals the 1/4" sheet elevators. The fin and rudder are 3/16" sheet.
Yikes! I had a bit of a scare. The wing drawing in these CAD plans is off by 1/8" chordwise. But, the main spar notches and the LE line up and the fuse wing saddle cut-out matches the ribs. So, all I need to do is disregard the TE as it's drawn on the plans and everything will fit fine. I was afraid I was going to have to cut a new set of ribs at first.
I guess I could have drawn building tabs on the ribs to hold them level, but I didn't. I don't have a wing jig, so I cut out three cradles to support the root, middle and tip ribs parallel to the board. The centerlines of the cradled ribs are all equal distance from the board. Here is a pic of this setup. You can see how the TE was originally drawn 1/8" too far back. But, as I said, the fuse cut-out matches the parts so it's no big deal.
-------------------------
To me, few things are as enjoyable as building a Bridi designed model. I still use a lot of his building techniques when I design my own models. You sound as though you are having fun. Good for you. <G>