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Old 01-10-2006 | 02:39 PM
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piper_chuck
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From: Columbia, SC
Default RE: Sealing Engine Bay Area ?

ORIGINAL: Lowlevlflyer

I still havent seen anyone give a definite "yes" or "no" on using the Aerogloss fuel proof dope for fuel proofing. I was at my local Hobby Lobby last night, and they have a bunch of the clear, at a good price. Thinkin' I might use it if it's alright.
OK, how's this? Aerogloss is fuel proof up to 20 to 25% nitro fuels. It is dust free in 5-10 minutes, ok to handle after about 30 minutes, can be recoated after an hour, and requires up to 3 days to reach maximum fuel resistance.

Here's the rest of the text I got the above from:
"Flammable: Contains toluol and methyl ethyl keytone.
As with any type of painting procedure, always test for compatibility of materials on a scrap piece before attempting to paint model.
For best results: Fill and seal wood with Sanding Sealer, Balsa Fillercoat Primer or Prep Primer. Sand smooth and clean surface.
Use at 70 to 80 degrees (F), brushing or airbrushing with several
thin coats instead of one heavy coat. To thin for airbrushing, use
only Aero-Gloss Thinner. Dries ready-to-handle in 30 minutes;
recoat in 1 hour for brushing, and any time for spraying.
Tape free in 30-60 minutes before sanding and 24 hours or overnight before masking with vinyl electrical tape for trim painting. After
painting trim, dry at least 15 minutes before removing tape.
Cures to maximum fuel resistance in 3 days under normal drying conditions. Dust free in 5-10 minutes.
Allow 72 hours dry time if Formula-U is to be applied as a topcoat.
Tissue Models: Final applications of 1 part dope to 1 part Aero-Gloss thinner provides the smoothest finish."


I think I'll be sticking to Balsarite or epoxy.