RE: ANOTHER RADIO AND SERVO QUESTION
NEXT DAY OF ADJUSTMENT:
Throttle - bent the pushrod to better pass through the pushrod tube. Changed the servo arm with a brand new one and moved the servo end of the pushrod to the 2nd hole in (middle hole). Buzzing appears to have stopped. Now I have a couple of questions . . .
1] When the throttle is full-open the entire carburetor opening is visible to the eye, but when it is full-closed there is still about 1/16" that is still visibly open. Is this enough of an opening to interfere with the operation or idle of the engine? Is it acceptable or should it be corrected?
2] With my radio setup the way it is now a full up stick closes the carburetor while a full down stick opens it. Shouldn't this be the opposite? The instruction booklet for the LT-40 says 'stick forward' for carburetor to be fully open while 'stick back' is fully closed. Am I correct in understanding that 'forward' means up stick while 'back' means down stick? Shouldn't I reverse the servo to follow what the LT-40 instruction booklet says?
2b] Also the rudder control is reversed so that right is left and vice-versa, and with the elevator (which is supposed to be the one that is reversed according to the booklet) up is up and down is down. According to what I read right is right, left is left, up is down, down is up, full-throttle is stick forward (or up), and full-closed throttle is stick back (or down). If this is the way the booklets say it is shouldn't it be that way? Do all companies ship radios with the opposite setup? and why if the responses are as mentioned here?
I have attempted for more than an hour to adjust the nosegear of the LT-40 to no avail. No matter how I bend the rod it still causes the servo to buzz. I have wasted two music wire pieces in my attempts to have the wire pass smoothly through the tube, and I have just purchased another two 30" lengths of music wire to try another attempt. I am afraid if something doesn't give soon I will end up putting this model down in the cellar with the rest of my builds. What makes it hard is that both ends of the wire have to be bent. The steering arm end has to be bent slightly down to pass smoothly while the servo end has to be bent also, and that is hard to do with the wire inserted in the tube. The wire has to be in the tube to do the second bend at the opposite end for the reason of it not being able to be put into the tube with both ends bent. And its hard to reach into the fuselage with pliers to do the bend. But I will keep up the attempt until the servo buzzing stops and the wire slides smoothly, and NOT lose my temper I hope[:@].
Other news today: The buzzing of the servos do not occur while the pushrods are disconnected and its just the bare servos. The elevator no longer buzzes as I changed the control linkage from the 7" threaded rod to a 1" threaded linkage. The rudder no longer buzzes as I also changed the control linkage from the 7" threaded rod to a 1" threaded linkage. I also played with the End Point Adjustments and the buzzing almost stopped when the percentage got down to 50% which is way too low so that idea is out.
So . . . the elevator and rudder no longer buzz, the throttle buzzing appears to have been fixed. It's just the nosegear to configure to the point where it no longer buzzes and glides smoothly in the tube . . . what a job I have cut out for me.
EDIT > > > Could it be possible for me to try a ball link connector in place of the pushrod connector for the nosegear? I hope so, I think that would be so much easier for me.
Wish me luck, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I know these are quite a few questions but I hope to get them all answered.
Thank you!!!
~Steve~