John R's painting tips (see tag from Edgar) are right on target. But here's an added tip when wet-sanding: consider using distilled water rather than tap water. Why? Some tap water is not the best and contains impurities that can literally be *sanded* right into the paint!! (I know this.)
David R's comment about reluctance in letting an autobody shop paint a jet is partially true- they WILL lay on the paint if left to their own devices. However, a good painter takes pride in being able to apply just what is necessary - no more.
For some of the more trick (read: busy) color schemes I stumbled onto a custom *motorcycle* painter of all things who is a graphics genius. The two I've encountered think these jets are the coolest thing since sliced bread and electric starters on Harleys. And these guys are familiar with what it takes to handle small parts and related fiddly bits. And it's in their gene structure to use as little paint as possible - most of these guys operate on a limited overhead and paint costs a lot of money these days.
A good automotive paint store that handles the generic brands is the place to go. The generic paint (acrylic enamel which is also less toxic than the PPG "numbered" system) is much cheaper. Most of these stores will put up paint in spray cans (for touchup) too. I've been painting anything that floats, flies, or rolls since I was 15 and in my quest for a cost effective approach to painting I've discovered the PPG (and DuPont) is not the only show in town. Your mileage may vary.
My $0.02US worth.

Mike