... and I've never tried to describe that to somebody in English. I can't give you guarantee that it is understandable.

You should still find the crossed marks of the honing on the surface. It normally feels smooth even when new if you touch it with your fingers.

If an engine is new the honed surface provides a defined friction on the piston ring. After the run in process is finished, the piston ring has 100% contact with the sleeve. That gives maximum compression and in result maximum power.

The honed surface will remain and can keep an thin "coating" of oil. Visually there will be no difference to a new sleeve. If there are some areas where no honing marks are visible this is not very good.


To prevent any mistakes because of my poor english skills I have some English links, which can inform you very well about the break in process of an ringed engine and how this ring/honed sleeve thing really works.

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main...neBreakIn.html


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm

Now it comes to my model engines. I rebuild a few very rusty or very used
(or both ) engines. I used a Method which sounds a bit hard and
unprofessional but it works for me and I do not recommend it as the best solution.

I use sandpaper (400-800) to "emulate" the honed surface on the sleeve
(also on the bushings if necessary... sometimes also before I run an China
engine first).

It worked out very well for me. Of course you have to clean the parts very
well and don't remove to much material. Just scratch the surface a bit so
that it looks like the picture shows. Roll the sandpaper and turn it so the
scratches are crossed in the same angle like the original honing.

I repeat: This is an unofficial private method. I give no warranty.