Alienx,

I've been reading along here and I've noticed that although you're encountering some frustrating stuff that you've kept your head and tried to be logical. That's great, it makes a real difference when you're dealing with tough building problems.

Now, from me, here goes; You won't believe how twisted up a model can be and still fly halfway decent. Here's what I usually shoot for with mine. I set the model level so that my horizontal stabs are level side-to-side and front-to-back. I use one or two el-cheapo torpedo levels for this as long as it's not a built-up airfoil on the horizontal stabs. Then I use the robart or comparable incidence level to check where my wing is, and on most models I simply zero them to each other front-to-back at first. Most models will fly well with that. Then I visually walk around the model and if the wing is tilted I see what I can do to reduce that tilt or remove it. You can file down the wing saddle a little at a time until you're pretty close. Keep making sure the rear is still level and that the wing is still in synch with the rear for incidence (front to back) while you carve away. I've even reset my whole wing using Sig Epox-o-Lite and wax paper when the job looked too difficult for carving. Then I had a custom wing saddle and all I had to do was smooth out the Epox-o-lite afterward. Other guys use foam with a sticky edge to tilt the wing a bit, there are lots of ways to do it, just use your imagination. This also gives you the opportunity to make the much-loved trip to the hobby shop for stuff!

Jim