vertical ts

My Feedback: (50)

i would personally do it.Why?Because i am eventually going to bump it into a wall,and if it's going to strip due to me gentaly moving,it's going to do it when i bump it.I don't want something that fradgile and breaks that easy.Just my 2 cents....Trent

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Wind and Vertical ts, give me the rundown on 2s and 3s prop requirements. I ran my Nip-ster on the 3 cell pac and it is awesome!. I was using the 10.4.7 prop. Shouild I drop the prop diameter if I up the voltage?

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

I was never lucky enough to get engineer groupie chicks either. Then again, I never had a pocket protector or slide rule. Nor the tape on the glasses.

Vert, wow, you're brave in shaving down an outrunner casing. Have you had your apart yet?

Regarding props for the Nippy and 3 cells, I have found that the 10x4.7 is the prop I keep going back to no matter how many cells I use. I've tried 9x7, 9x4.7, 11x4.7 9x7 and 10x7 as well. In theory, one might tend to load the motor less if you up the voltage to keep the motor and speed control current down. If you up the voltage and keep the load the same, it will of course draw more current. A way to get the current back down is to unload the motor, going to a smaller diameter or pitch. I find my batteries get a little warm when using 3 cells, but not really hot. I fly the E-sledge on 3 cells with the 0808 and a 10x4.7, but that's a 9.5 oz plane.

I normally don't worry too much about twisting servos by hand. It seems to happen anyway in the car on the way to the field or gym.

vertical ts

My Feedback: (50)

one a 3 cell 340 mah pack,i personally choose to go with a 9x3.8.I feel that it gives excellent performance for 3d,and pattern aerobatics .It is great for hovering as it hovers less than half throttle,and does not brake as hard as a 10' prop.When you flying indoor and you do a stall turn,you don't want to much braking.You want to build up speed to get the wing flying again.A 10" prop gives more braking than a 9" prop,and also pulls more current.The cooler you run your motor,the more efficient it will be.Remember,these are just my observations,and my opinions.Also,they were based on an axi 2208/34

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

TS should be an Engineer, he's like Mr. Spock when it comes to RC........ he cant get chicks either. Just got off the phone with one of my headhunters, he has talked to two major players in the Analytical Instrument industry who are interested in me, I also applied for a job in New England, you can show me what High Schools I can infiltrated up there Wind.

What did Tony Montana say in Scar Face First you get the Degree, then you get the power, then you get the $400 foam airplane. or something like that.

I ran my Shocky on the 11V LiPo I just purchased, it's a rocket ship. Trent, Kenny, and I are going to kick some ass at the meeting tomorrow night!!!

Wind, I harvested the little motor out of an old beeper, luckily I had the special gear pulling tool to get the vibrator, weight off the shaft. I have bench run this thing up to 9V. I also harvested one good cell from the 340mAh Kokam I messed up previously, it took a charge and ran the beeper motor nicely. I found a plane design on RCgroups I Will have to buy a receiver, ESC, and actuators for this plane. More news to follow.

Drink to your health.... one more drink and I'm gonna get sick!


Blahhheheheoooooooooooowo ah!

Whack!

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

heres a photo of the motor, gear puller and a dime form size reference

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

Seb,

Sure. We'll set you up with several high schools that have great flying possibilities. I bet you'll have no trouble passing as an eccentric high school science prof. On our first stealth mission, I will bring a mop to complete my disguise as custodian.

hey, what are you gonna do with that micro motor? Is fhis for fulfilling your living room dream?

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah Wind, that's for a future project, I'm going to ask VertiacalTS to collaborate on the project. There is existing gear boxes actuators and other peripherals already available on the market.
I priced out the electronics to be about $200 bucks, Not very costly at all.
I will be looking for a new house soon. On top of my list is a huge room for indoor micro flight. I wonder if I can live in a Roller Rink or a warehouse?

Check out that tiny gear puller, I have been dying to use that thing. I got it from Bob and Dave at Balsapr.com, tell'em Seb sent ya!!

YNOT

FLEX!!!!

Any way to take some of the flex out of the elevator?

I can see the ele flexing like crazy. The fuse also twist bad when rolling.

I have tri- angle stock on the bottom of the fuse, thinking of putting it on top, too. Could use the tail weight anyway.

For the elevators????????? Help? The stab is ok, just the ele. I have tape, glue, carbon fiber stips. 1) CF strips going at a 45 on the bottom of the ele? 2) Strapping tape on the bottom? 3) Hinge tape on the bottom?

Anything else? Anything else to stiffen the airframe. Got plenty of power.

Sky Brother

Hey guys what kind of connector comes with a Kokam pack? I am gonna get the 2 cell 340. I am hooking it up to a phoenix 10, and I am wondering if I need to solder a new connector here. I need to know what connector the battery pack has so I can buy a charge lead.

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Ynot, can you post a picture of your plane?
I want to see what you have. The ShockFlyer calls for the tri stock on top of the fuse. My tailfeathers flex a bit because I didnt thoroughly glue the tri stock to the airframe. See if you have air gaps where the tristock attaches to the plane.

Dont add too much weight, Weight is the enemy

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Sky, I bought 2 kokams from Hobby-Lobby which came with a small black connector that had a locking clip. The Kokams I got from Balsapr.com had JST connectors on it. I am using JST connectors on all my electrics. You have to wait and see which connector you get. If you do not know how to solder let me know I will give you a quick tutorial and turn you into a soldering pro/

Get a low watt rated solder pencil, under 25 watts. you can get one at Home Depot for about $10.00 You will need some thin solder .032 dia light duty solder.

Sky Brother

Thanks Whack, yeah I know how to solder, I have all the stuff for that and all, I was just wondering what connectors I had to order. By the way, is balsapr a cheap place for batteries?

One more thing, if I get an AXI do I need a prop adapter or can I just push the prop (APC 10X4.7) onto the shaft? Thanks for the help.

talk the torque

Hi Guys

My name is Jason and I am from South Africa. I have just received my Edge 540 shocky and need some advice please. I fly glow and gas and am flying a scratch built 40% Extra at the moment but know absolutely nothing about electric. I have got the standard motor/gearbox that comes with the shocky and I think the prop is a 10x5.5 I am flying with JR equipment. Please can you help me with different manufactures for servos, receivers, speed controllers and batteries that I should use and also some specs that I might need to know. I want to use the plane as a 3D practise plane and also be able to get good flight times. You talk about 2 and 3 cell packs....so what voltage do these motors run at then?? Some of the things that I want to know is: What size and torque servos; What amp will the speed controller need to handle; What's best Lipo, Lithium, Nickel Met. Hyd.; Why are none of you guys using the standard motor?

Thanx for any help
Cheers Jason

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Brother, I like the JST connectors, the guys I fly with all use it, this way we can share batteries and chargers if we have to. they are pretty cheap, order them from balsapr.com, $1.50 each or 10 for $13.50 they wont split that up between males and females though. I found out the hard way.

Torque, there is tons of building and gear info in this thread as well as others in this discussion group. The consensus is the AXI 2208/34 is the motor of choice. The Castle Creations Phoenix 10 is the speed controller to buy. Use 340mAh to 800mAh 2 cell packs. A 3 cell in the same amp range is acceptable.
You can use Hitec HS 55 servos. I am using a GWS receiver but there are others, my GWS works fine.

A brushless motor will give you unbelievable performance. Dump the stock motor and get a Brushless. I am using the Nippy Black 0808. there is a neat tubular mount described earlier in this thread.
Do some reading to find more info out, everything you need is posted on the Internet. Try ezonemag.com also, they have some comprehensive disscussion groups as well.

You will probably do better ordering your supply's from a European supplier being from South Africa. Good luck, post some photos when you start your project.

Whack

In the Haze

Any tips (if any) on taping the carbon strips to the leading and trailing edges "easily". Done mine looks ok but wasn't the easiest using only 2 hands :-)

Any dimensions on cutting the nose to accept the ply mount for a AXI 2208/34, haven't got the motor yet but working on the plane meantime.

Thanks for any advice.

Neville.

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Neville, the first step should have been making the cuts to the accommodate the plywood disk to mount the AXI motor to. This link has details on how to install the AXI on the ShockFlyer http://www.hobby-lobby.com/shockflyer-brushless.htm

here is how I handled mounting the wing LE and TE
Make sure you have enough length on both sides before you start, size everything up then spread your glue. I left the material long and cut it with a hobby saw after step 6.
Evenly spread the supplied glue on the wing surface and the carbon fiber parts. Wait the 10 minuets for the glue to setup, then with the wing flat on the work surface (wax paper on the bench under the wing) bring the glue side of the Carbon fiber to the wing using the bench to keep the parts flush. Do the leading edge first. because it's easier.
Now do the trailing edge, start by attaching the center section. tape it to hold it in place while you bring the ends to the wing. Work out from the middle Taping one section at a time.

I hope this clarifies this step for you.
Good Luck
Whack

In the Haze

Whack,

Great, thanks for the explanation, I didn't do too bad I think.

These things are a far cry from my turbines and 40% aerobats, slightly different building techniques tho.[>:]

Looks like fun.

Neville.

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

you wont beleive how these things fly on the Brushless setup. Plus it is easier to practice 3D with a $40 dollar foam plane as opposed to a $4000+ model.

show us what you are flying, post some photos

Whack

In the Haze

Won't bore you with all sorts of stuff, but will try to get pic's from camera to here without too much frustration. [:@]

Have seen the benefit of these foamies and have also followed most of the shockflyer threads so know a lot more than I did a few months ago.

Thanks to all the contributors on here that have made learning this new concept (to me at least) a lot easier. We do not have the same resources here in SA as you have but I must admit the LHS are catching a wake up quick, this is a booming trend right now.

Neville.

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Most U.S. hobby suppliers will ship to South Africa, FedEx is the best shipping option. Here's a tip for you. There must be 3 documents attached to an INTL shipment, Commercial Invoice, Letter of Declaration, and Country of Origin statement.
You can ease the work for the seller by preparing some of these documents for them.
The Commercial invoice is a simple receipt from the purchase, it must state the senders name address phone number and tax ID number, standard info however it must be signed by the sender.

The letter of declaration simply states the contents of the box. the price for the items (totaled) the reason for the purchase... I (the shipper) state that the contents of this package is blah blah blah. Sold to you know who, for the cost of $$$ for personal use (rc hobby etc)

The country of origin will be difficult for you to prepare because you donot know what was made in Taiwan,China, USA, ect. Send an email to your chosen supplier to see if they will ship internationally. Let them know you are willing to help with the international documentation.

I almost forgot to add, each document must be signed and supplied in triplicate placed in a removable pouch outside the package so the docs can be removed inspected by Customs agents and replaced

Best of Luck

Whack

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Had a great time at the club meeting tonight. There were tons of electrics mostly slow flyers and stick planes. There were only 5 Shockys, 2 with the stock motor system. One with the stocky's actually had some lead weight on the nose approx 2oz. Needless to say it didn't even ROG. I offered the guy the use of one of my LiPo's but he declined. I guess he liked having an RC Car with wings. It was the heaviest shockflyer I ever held.
Both shockys with the stock setup were on the lame side. I almost built mine stock, good thing I didn't.
I put on a show with my Shocky after my 2 bros's with the AXI motors both had mounting mishaps. Huge thanks have to go out to Wind Junkie, his tube mount is unboubtably the best for rough flying.
there were a few guys taking photos, one of our members is a Pro Photog, I hope to get some of my hover shots, I'll post them when I get them.

Go get a ShockFlyer.....NOW!
dont forget the brushless motor

In the Haze

Thanks for all the info, glad I didn't even attempt the stock setup.

Appreciate it.

Neville

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

Glad to hear you had fun Seb.

2 oz in extra weight! Holy cow. I paid about $100 extra in state of the art components just to save that much weight on my shocky.

People don't seem to realize you can move stuff around on an airplane to get the balance where you need it. Extra weight is the most evil thing you can do to a powered aerobatic plane.

An R/C car with wings.... LOL

whackinski

My Feedback: (2)

Wind I find it hard to believe that in this day of the internet and these RC discussion groups anyone would not be able to get a ShockFlyer to fly. Even before I bought my Shocky I was researching the subject matter for a while. I was going to build a Todds Models TinyX with GWS gear when my local hobby guy turned me onto the ShockFlyer.
I think it has something to do with the ARF generation. When I started flying there were no such things as ARF's. You started out with a bunch of sticks and planks, come to think of it there wasnt even Cya. My first trainer went together with elmers white glue and epoxy. I think this made the hobbiest more aware of the entire process. Now any dude with $100 bucks can fly RC, but that dude will never develop the soul of the builder/pilot.