thenamshow

hey....didnt fly my ucd yet but im waiting a little to get the air scoops so my 25 amp doesnt over heat. i have one hole in the plane...cc phoniex 10 light up like a a puddle of gas. got my money back bough a new motor and 25 amp esc. can i make my own scoops out of some balsa i have left over if so how? thanks for your help

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

thenamshow,

I put on scoops to make it look nice. But, I really don't think it's necessary to provide adequate cooling. A simple hole in the front part of the canopy area near the ESC and another to the rear is probably plenty good. Maybe harden the hole edges with CA to prevent ripping.

If you want to fabricate something, I would probably try to cut a section of a small styrofoam cup and glue that on. I'm thinking if you slice a bottom corner on a diagonal, then cut out the floor section, it would make a nice light scoop that wouldn't look too bad. Use foam-safe CA over a teardrop shaped hole... viola!

We put a hole in the keel at the TE of the wing for an exit, but you have to cut thru several layers of material (floor, wing and bulkhead). Looks a little better than a second hole on the top, but watch for your servo wires when cutting.

sterry0801

Tmaniaci

I took your advice and ordered the motor combo you recommended. First of all, let me say that I am very impressed with the speed of service from Dymond. I already received my order and it as only been like 2 days. Very impressive.

Everything looks really good and I am very anxious to try the new motor. My BIG question is.... how do you wire the motor? All the wires on the motor are RED. How do I know which RED wire from the motor goes to which RED/WHITE/BLUE wire on the ESC?

I am by no means an expert on brushless motors and have very little experience with them.

If you can offer some advice, I really appreciate it.

Thanks again for your help and I'll post again after flying the UCD with the new motor.

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Sterry,

There is no "polarity" on brushless motors. The actual signal is an alternating digital quasi 3-phase sinusoidal power output from the ESC. Hook 'em up any way, no matter, and if the motor turns the wrong way, swap any two motor connections to reverse it.

Good luck! We love it, and it is well overpowered like this. I don't think you wil be disappointed.

sterry0801

Tman

Thanks. You have been really helpful and it is greatly appreciated.

[sm=biggrin.gif]

TheInfiltration

Hi...im new the forum and to flying...let alone flying in 3d...i used a trainer and i can fly my ucd half diecent but the nose breaks so easy so i had to use 2 ugly...UGLY pieces of epp foam to sturdy it up...it works but im so heavy that its hard to fly...just wanted to know if you had any mods to the front and to the chincy zipper case on the top as a hard nosedive can cause the batt to eject out of the plane...hehehe anyway im planing on makeing a mount to the firewall out of balsa and mounting a brushless motor to it and going with direct drive (ive been stripping the gearbox too) im also thinking about cutting the whole top of the plane off (the holding area for the batt and such) and just making my own containment somehow since it has been blown to pieces so many times its more hot glue than epp...still thinking about how. i also had to slice the fuse down the back and re-glue it by overlapping the cut area since my tail wasnt inline with the wing...i tried to heat and bend with a blowdrier but it would just move back in a day or so. anyway sorry for ranting and raveing forever but if anywone knows what to do or has mods please post them PICS PICS PICS please by the time im done with this thing ill probably have made my own plane...anyway please help

thanks again

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

TheInfiltration,

Dude, sorry you are having challenges. This nerf plane sure is not a durable as we all had hoped. We put on CF (Carbon-Fiber) straps on the sides to beef it up in the nose. With only one serious crash, they poped loose, but they prevented the nose from damage. See photo.

robobart

OK, here comes my 2 cents..
I bought a used UCD3D EP, and promptly fell in love with it!!
Sure, it's flexible, ok, it could be a little stiffer at times, (KNife edge), but otherwise, it bends to my will instantly, (No pun intended). I was in a hurry, so I used the stock motor, and a 3cell LiPo, and it almost hovers,, actually drops down very vertically, and VERY slowly!!!!
Loops rolls, and spins are sweet...

I imagine you could break it, I actually did a little damage installing the tail servos because my knife was not sharp enough, but never damaged it any further in flight, and I sure tried!!!!!

It is real snappy, but not what I would call crisp... I dont think you get "Crisp" for 60 bucks, either..

Compared to most nitro 3d's, I think it's quite rugged...
Now, off to find a brushless for it!!!!!

c016Y

can you send me an email with your video? I can host it one tulsa3d.com and I would like to see it.

c016Y

ok.. i am thinking about getting one of these or a yak 55 ep. Curious on flight reports.. do they 3d well. harriers, inv harriers, flat spins, asc flat, hover, ke coupling? (how bad). Any comparisons to the yak 55 ep?

Towers

Well, the U-Can-Do EP isn't the best looking plane on the market, but it is a good trainer, on my type of flying it has meet the ground at 90º (and fast) and it didn´t break anything except for a small crack on the wing (I Think that it needs a very strong impact to break the nose apart) it is also very tolerant to wing crashes and it flexibility is superb, too. I strongly recommend is to tight up that battery as strong as you can, because when the battery is loose, if you crash, it woul brake and tear off the cockpit, (experience) and the plane isn´t that bad, the only thing that is weak, is that the stock power system wont hover that weight, I am expecting a Rimfire but I don't know how I am going to mount it on its firewall (stick)... any suggestions will be great!... and T.Bob how do you recommend to stiffen the elevators?

lynntonyd

My Feedback: (1)

I have the same questions as above.. thinking about the Yak55, wondering how it will fly and if they made any improvements. I started glow this year and I can do some basic aerobatics on my trainer. I'm building a Sig 4 Star from a kit for the winter and I want a toy to play with in the yard or a field. Is this a good idea for me or should I pursue a flat -out style plane?

Lastly they say to use a 3 cell 640-1250mAh battery. Why wouldn't I buy the 1250? Any reason to buy a 640?

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

c016Y and wugak,

The UCD is not a bad plane. It is very durable, it terms of crash survival. It flies okay, but the factory motor sucks bad. Underpowered and overloaded, it will fry in short order. Don't waste money on a brushed-controller to run it.

The only thing about this bird is the flex. It's a soft frame to make it durable, and in hard manuvers, the plane flexes all out of shape and doesn't do things clean. We put CF bars on to firm it up, helps quite a bit. Like Towers said, good 3D trainer, but you'll want more when you get better skill-wise.

We fly it with a 3S 1500 mAH Lipoly, and it is not "heavy on the wing", so go for the bigger battery range there. But, do remember that the 3D performance is highly dependent on the weight. I'm sure it would fly MUCH better on a 640, if the battery can provide enough current to make it pull out strong. That's not a real possibility yet though, a 20C 600 mAH range battery will provide around 12 amps fully poaded. This plane needs more like 15 amps (180-190 watts) to really work.

We went with the Dymond [link=http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_motor_brushless.htm]COOL S 4200[/link] geared brushless. It is a drop-in replacement and provides NICE power, and only $69 WITH a 25 amp brushless ESC! Good quality, awesome value.

While you're there, they have a [link=http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_batteries_lipol.htm]3S 1500 mAH 12C Lipoly[/link] that is very light for it's size, weighs less than their own 1350 mAH. That's only $39... great value and very good quality.

Towers

Well, since you say that you are kind of a begginer (maybe a little more experienced) the park flyers and small electrics are a parallel entretainment to glow powered ones, but they also need to start from the "lower ones"... The flightflex planes offers a very good option when chossing your first 3d or electric, I bought a UCD EP to start on electrics and besides introducing me to electric flight it had also help me improve my skills on small planes characteristics... I also consider buying a Flaout model (foamie) and they appear that wouldn´t resist the beginner crashes for sure---- And about the batt. the concern is the weight, if you have a bigger batt it could compromise the weight support of the plane on landings and even flying capabilities... hope it solves anything!!

Towers

Since I have been reading the hole thing, and there have been many motor and esc´s frying out I want to know if:


The Rimfire motor + BL-8 ESC + LiPo 1500mAh 11.1 + 9 x 3.8 would be a good set up for hovering the UCD and without the risk of burning the hell out???

Would be greatly apreciated!!!

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Towers,

Not enough info to judge.

What is the Kv on the Rimfire?

What is the gearbox ratio for the drive system?

What is the amp rating of the ESC?

What is the "C" rating for the Lipoly?

Towers

The Rimfire has 1000Kv
It is an outrunner style, just prop adapter
The amp rating for the esc is 8A (I am new on electrics but i think thats the number)
The max discharge of the lipo is 8C

Thanks for helping me out TManiaci

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Towers,

First, a 1000 Kv (rpm per volt) outrunner will turn over 11,000 rpm with an 11.1V 3-cell lipoly. The true voltage with a load is uknown without wattmeter readings, but let's start with the assumption a fresh battery has 12.4 volts and the load pulls it down to 11.0 volts.

The UCD will weigh around 15 oz's ready to fly. So, to hover will require something over that in thrust, usually assume 120% at the very minimum to really hover a plane with all the surging. We like to see at least 10 watts per ounce to 3D, but shoot for 15 watts per ounce to get strong vertical performance. So, we should look for 180-200 watts.

Wattage Calc says that the 9x3.8 at 11,000 rpm will make 150 watts output. Assuming the motor is running at 80% efficiency (common), then the input draw is around 180 watts. That equates to around 16.4 amps (watts = amps x volts).

So, your motor is rated for 11 amps constant, 15 amps burst. A little short.

Your battery is rated for 12 amps max (1.5 amp-hours x 8 C). A lot short.

Your ESC is good for 8 amps. WAY short.

Bottom line, to hover will be pushing ALL the hardware pretty hard. These are all conservative calculations, but my guess is you will be getting everything pretty hot, and potentially failing, if you hold it wide-open-throttle (WOT) for long periods. With a wattmeter, you should prop the plane for no more than 12 amps WOT. Then it will last with this hardware fairly well, but will probably be fairly weak.

Hope that's all correct, I think it is...

Towers

Thanks for the reply it solved pretty much all questions.... and learned a bit more!

But I guess my UCD isnt meant to hover because of my budget I cant afford another set up... it was originally ment fot the outrage 3D from ultrafly models but I decided not to buy it (hope I can order it any time soon)....But If i have the oportunity what would you recommend me to buy, a more powerul motor(kv), esc(amps, C) or batt(amps)??? and finally what is the best way to fly my UCD without risking my hardware?


I hear lots of brands for brushless, but international shipping is an issue for me (package is risked on shipping), so Tower Hobbies(TH) is pretty much my only option, thought TH dont sell many of the motors, esc´s you guys talk about here, and i really like to try something else... its a shame

Once again thanks for the reply it surely save me a lot of money!

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Towers,

The plane will fly fine, but not 3D well at a lower wattage. I calculate you should target 130 watts draw to limit amperage to 12 amps max. That says that if you prop with an APC 8x3.8, you will control the amp draw nicely. That's what I would recommend, downsize the prop. Otherwise, fly it with the bigger 9x3.8 prop, and just stay away from full throttle except for very short bursts. Your ESC may trip the overcurrent limits if you push too hard, even with the 8x3.8, depending on the ESC and how it handles overload.

Hardware selection is difficult. You make decisions based on budget, and balance that with power and quality. You want really good stuff, get a 25 amp CC Phoenix or 30 amp Jeti, an AXI 2212/20, and a Thunder Power Pro 3S 1320 mAH 15C on a APC 10x3.8, ballistic. That will run over $200. On the cheap, a [link=http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_motor_brushless.htm]Dymond combo Tornado 400T [/link] with a 25 amp ESC for $69, and a [link=http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_batteries_lipol.htm]Dymond 3S 1500mAH 12C[/link] for $39... good combo, lower quality, but very good match to your needs. Prop with APC 9x4.7 and have fun for a little over $100.

There are lots of other choices in between price-wise, and lower or higher power setups. There is a lot to choose from out there, so there is no "right" answer to the question. The above setups will provide 180-200 watts with the AXI setup, and then Dymond stuff will make 150-170 watts comfortably. Any "Park 400" setup would be ideal for a plane in this weight class. You can look at any existing aircraft "kits" like that to see what they recommend for the plane, but keep in mind, they generally underpower planes by 20-30% with the factory recommended setups. To get amazing power, which we all want, you need to upscale a bit from there. Look for setups for planes that weigh 20 oz's, then you'll be comfortably overpowering.

My way of looking at it... don't waste your money on marginal hardware to save a few bucks. You will regret it later, and buy again to get the power you really desire.

Towers

Tman I really apreciate your help, it solved hundreds of things... know I wont buy for looks.... now that I bearly understand more about watts, discharges and amps i can really pick better things, as you said, there are tons of hardware for me to choose, so next time, when I have the opportunity, i would consider your suggestions!, thanx a lot!

I am thinking about the Outrage 3D (ultrafly models)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKFB3&P=7

(I wonder if the 10.2 oz weight is the all up weight with all the hardware or just the kit´s weight???i think it is just the kit)

If it is just the kit, does my early setup (for the UCD) could make 3D possible?

If my servos are HS-55 (0.27oz each x 3=0.81oz)
The BL-8 ESC is 0.42oz
The Lipo 1500 mAh 11.1v 8C is 3.77oz
The Rimfire is 1.48oz

For a total of 6.48oz+10.2(plane)= 16.68oz

So i Would have the same problem with weight/watts as in the UCD, right???

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

The (AUW) weights published for ARF kits generally are including the "recommended" flying gear. The hardware you have will fly that plane well... good choice. I would warn you though, a light little bipe like this will be very swift and agile, and will not fly in wind well at all. A plane like this is best flown indoors.

c016Y

I am actually looking at the yak, but, have seen some good recommendations on power plant on this forum. I think ucd is about the same weight. Is this engine and esc good?
A20-22L w/Hacker X-20 ESC
and what about this battery?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGHE6
does it just suck?

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

I would select the A20-20L (not the 22L), a bit more punch. ESC is perfect.

Yes, that Electrifly battery sucks! These days, you can get much better power for less. I would not buy any 8C batteries like this one, when you can get 10C and 12C batteries that weigh about the same, but deliver far more current. 12 amps is not enough to get "good" performance out of a 15 oz plane. You need at least 15 amps, and 18 amps is just right for great perfomance. You want your battery to match or exceed the motor and ESC capacity. Putting in a motor and ESC with 18-20 amp capacity, and then running a 12 amp battery will be a waste.

c016Y

By chance could you provide me with a link to a good battery. Would be nice to be at tower since family is looking to by this for christmas and they know that site.. if not.. anywhere. Thanks so much for the information.