c016Y

Where can I find a beam mount for my hacker a20 motor? Something like this:
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...69/Nl30127.jpg

Or ... is there a better way to mount this engine?

MKMotorsport

So, I went ahead and built one of these against everyone's good advice

I think mine turned out OK considering... I think the many helpful build suggestions that I found in this thread helped considerably- so for that thanks! I ended up putting a CF rod through the keel of the fusealage to strengthen the tail area, plenty of strapping and clear duct tape, cooling scoops and holes melted into the canopy, zipper sewn to the canopy, cowl cooling holes opened up. Stock linkage hardware (total junk) was ditched in favor of more traditional/adjustable stuff. all said i probably have 10-12 hours build time in it, which is only 4 x longer than its supposed to take to build [:@] Im running E-flite 7.5 servos, Hitec 05 Rx, C-35 GP esc, and the stock motor. I think I may end up making some landing gear, my plane looks worn out already from 8 belly skid landings today.

I put about 8 flights on mine today, and its a fun plane, different but fun. Power is adequate but not impressive. Lovely how the motor gets smoking hot on the 3S lipo. this plane is making me learn how to use the rudder. Im hoping to get more comfortable with some more aerobatics basic 3D stuff close to the deck. This one is definetly going to end up being 'sacrificial' in the name of learning some new stuff, and when it hits the trash bin one day, I probably wont be shedding any tears.

c016Y

I actually got the yak, but, am guessing this portion is the same. It has these zbend clevis that you have to put the cf rods through. The stinking rods don't fit. Anybody else have this problem? Is it just me?

vinnyjet

My Feedback: (39)

i had to use a drill bit
to make them go in
and ca the rods in
vinny

flynz4me

My Feedback: (1)

Return of the UCD. Anyone still flying one of these?? I have had mine for quite a few months and have continually re engineered the plane to get it to perform as I want it to. PHEW!! My UCD is my everyday flier that is fun to fly. I want to move on to another plane and wanted to know where to go from here. I need a mate to my AXI 2212/34 that will 3D an eighteen oz plane. Airfoilz, Extreme Flight Yak, GP sukhoi, Eflite Yak,???

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

DEFINITLY - EFlite QQ Yak 54F! Awesome plane!

sceren

U-Can-Do is my first 3d plane. I have a HiMax 2812/0850, 12x6 APC SF prop and a TP 3S 730mah li-po on a 16oz U-Can-Do 3D. I am happy about this combination.
This is the video of that config. in a windy condition:

http://www.gurmanbayraktar.com/Download/Ucando2.wmv

rckid90

Man you have one good looking flying spot. I fly in my backyard or at a soccer field. [&o]

gottabfordtough

i've had my ucd since xmas i love it i got a cool s 4200 from this site http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_motor_brushless.htm. it flies awsome. it is the best allaround plane. it's slow, but fast. acrobatic but stable. i love it. about the only upgrade i did was run clear duct tape down the bottom of the fuse, and upgrade linkages. my flying weight is 16oz. i love the ucd.

deb1033

Hey guys i got one of these a couple months ago and it has been sitting on my shelf doing nothing. This is my first ARF so of course i went out and bought a cheap(under $150) JR Sport s400 radio that came with a micro reciever and micro servos. I plan on using all of the other recomended equipment(the recomended ESC,motor,battery) for the first few flights. But after a few flights i am planing on getting a better motor. I am looking at an extremely cheap(under $30) hobby zone aerobird extreme SPEED 540 replacement motor and i was wondering if it would work with all of the other equipment and if it would make the plane nose heavy. Please reply i really need to know

flynz4me

My Feedback: (1)

That sounds like it would be too heavy. This plane is AUW approx. 15.5oz. Check out the RC dymond option above. I have the Cool 5400 and I'm still happy with it(after I junked their gearbox and put their motor in a himax aluminum gearbox. Mad power long run times!! My setup is 17.2oz AUW w/cool 5400 6x1 geared, 11x7 sf prop, 1250 mah lipo 3s, and micro receiver w/ 3 HS55 and one HS56 on the rudder. Enjoy this plane man it isn't the best one out there but it will get you in the door in 3D flying. I still fly this plane everyday. I moved on to the Airfoilz Yak though awesome plane won't elaborate or you might start drooling.

deb1033

i changed my mind i am not going to get the ABX SPEED 540 motor for the UCD i am going to use a Balsa Products Bp 21 instead

flynz4me

My Feedback: (1)

Your UCD is sitting on the shelf?? Take it back and get the E-Flite Yak or Airfoilz Yak!! Trust me you won't be sad for long..

deb1033

it is at my uncles house across the country and he already assembled the body just waiting for him to bring out here to install the electronics

ca$hey

Deb thay are the best for learning basic 3d stuff very very very forgiving all you need is a hot glue gun repairs in minets but make sure you go brushless and when you get the hang of it you can fly them in the smallest places cheers beaggs

deb1033

how did you reinforce the tail...i have heard that it is so flexable that it can't do a tailstan. I would be really helpful if i knew what to use to reinforce the tail end

flynz4me

My Feedback: (1)

On mine I used flat carbon down both sides (left-over Zagi flat carbon). If you match up the width of the carbon to the stripe going down the rear of the fuse it is extremely easy to line up and tack in place with HG(hot glue). Mine is on the verge of retirement due to the wing flap I'm getting at speed and BTW make sure you either replace the hardware or reinforce it with piano wire. Here's why; when I was chasin' crows the other day with my plane it became unresponsive due to the bending of the carbon shafts used for linkage. Remedy; CA'd piano wire to the side of the carbon and wrapped a couple of turns of thread to help keep the wire attached to the carbon. First flight; back to the out of box performance. So Deb, this plane is a good trainer though it needs to be stiffened up to take out the sloppiness (carbon flats and a nose job). The nose job I did was broke off the nose and sharpened the ends of two 5" carbon tubes and inserted into the nose took them out inserted into the fuse side then slid the nose back on and re-glued. This was done to eliminate the torque twisting of the nose when throttle was applied. Granted I now have mine up to 17.2oz but it is really tough now!!! Like I've said before this is still my everyday flyer.

ca$hey

I inserted a 5mm hollow cf tube the full lenght of the plane it took a bit of time but well worth it you need to cut it from just behind the purse down to the rudder push the tube thru the front along the bottom of the battery floor right down till its past the sevos in the tail put your rx areil in befor you hot glue the seam back up you woudent even know that it had been opened up cheers
oh yer you need to hot glue the tube in as well

deb1033

i will do that then thx a lot

flynz4me

My Feedback: (1)

The flat carbon glued to the sides doesn't require cutting into the airframe, FYI.

deb1033

Hey guys i am going to use an E-Flite Park 400 brushless inrunner mtor(4200Kv) with a 6.6:1 gearbox and I want to use a 12x6 prop and i was wondering if that would work

ca$hey

Thats about as big as you should go i would try 11/4.7 to start with cheers

deb1033

ok then i will buy both props for the plane and find out which works better through the classic...trial and error. BTW i noticed that you are from australia i went there last summer(or your winter) pretty nice country

ca$hey

If you havent got a watts meter check the temp of the motor with the 12/6 prop if the motor gets to hot to touch dont use it .
Yep it is a nice country im right down south

deb1033

E-Flite recomends a 10/4.7 to 12/6 prop so it should be fine