Huckaneer

Alright well it knife edges better, but I still need to add a lot of up elevator to keep it inline. Do you have suggestions for me on this and does your plane do this.[:@][&:][:'(]

rmgmag

So it's pulling to the gear? Try, reflexing your ailerons up a few degrees, if that makes it worse, try reflexing them down.

Bob

Huckaneer

Alright thanks I will try that. At least it holds and doesn't roll out now.

Mike Parsons

Glad your getting it worked out!

VictoryRoll-91

I love my Byp so much, and I haven't even flown it! It's been real windy here in Michigan, but mybe tonight. Also, I know this a REALLY dumb question, but is it prnounce "Bip", "By" or "Bipe"? This has been killing me, and I'm afraid to bring it up around the hobby shop as I'm afraid I'll get it wrong. Thanks, hopefully maiden tonight!

Mike Parsons

I interprete it as BYP-Yak = BIPE YAK

VictoryRoll-91

I'm getting confused, I say "bip" yak, hobby shop guy says "By" yak. And now that you say bipe....we are a melting pot of pronounciations. I'm gonna try and email QQ...

Ryguy

My Feedback: (1)

I've always said Bipe, as in the first part of Byplane-Yak.

VictoryRoll-91

ok, I guess "bipe" does make a lot more sense. Bipe wins

captain_castor

Alright everyone, I've finished reading the whole thread and there are a few ideas for lightening the bypyak, but I would like to hear your ideas since flying it. I have the wings on the fuse with all the carbon supports, but have stopped there. I am going to try to get an ounce out of the stock plane by putting it on a strict diet. Here's the plan so far:

Electrical System:
Eflite Park 370 1080kv
CC 10 or eflite 10A ESC; 20A Eflite available if current is higher than 10A
(3) S75 servos
CC berg receiver
Thunderpower 480, i also have several 730's if the 480 can't deliver the current

Diet:
1: no metal landing gear, carbon tube instead, possibly remove one bulkhead -8g
2: no metal aileron linkages, use .080 carbon rod instead -4g
3: no wire pull-pull, use kevlar thread -2g
4: no dubro adjustable micro pull pull hardware, tie the thread directly to the horns -2g
5: use 10x47 GWS instead of 10x3.8 APC -2g

Thats about 18 grams total reduction, I need about 12 more to drop a full ounce.
Any suggestions?

malcolmm

Good luck with the 480. I am using a 730, it is marginal. My flight times are 8 to 10 minutes, power is marginal. Doesn't hurt to try it with the 480, but if you fly outdoors, you probably won't be satisfied unless there is no wind.

Malcolm

rmgmag

You're going to save close to an ounce just by using the smaller battery, but your flight times may end up in the 4-5 minute range.

I don't think that you're going to like the performance with the 10x4.7, I tried it and I put the 10x3.8 back on, it just seemed to fly better with the 10x3.8

I don't think that I'd remove any bulkheads. The foam isn't very strong at all.

Ditching the pull-pull hardware might cause you issues after the 1st tail touch......

You can grind the cases down on the servos and trim the wires to the shortest length possible. That should save you a few grams too.

Along similar lines, you can cut off the servo wires and leads, then solder magnet wire directly from the servos to the receiver posts. You'll save quite a few grams, but you need to be pretty good with a soldering iron.

Use JST connectors instead if Deans for the esc/battery connection, they're lighter.

Solder your esc directly to the motor wires, you'll save the weight of the connectors.

I know there are more tricks that people use, you could probably do a search here or on RCGroups, that's what I've done in the past.

captain_castor

I decided to build it bone stock and put it on a diet after flying it. It came out 11.7 oz with the 730mah thunder power 3s pack. It flies light on the wing but heavy on the prop. I'm gonna fly it stock for one indoor session then tear into it. I think I found about .9 oz to easily shave. 10.8 oz would be a great improvement in punch out performance.

littlemanx5

I just flew mine for the first time. It was fairly windy so that made life a little more difficult. My carbon support holes were also glue filled but a drill press made quick work of it. My setup:
park 370 1200KV
CC phoenic 25(overkill but I had it from a previous project)
hs-55's(^^^)
electron 6(hate it but i had it so the price was right)
apc10x3.8
Tanic 780 3S packs(a little heavier due to the tanic taps but thats one of my favorite features of the pack)
Futaba 9Z (still working on setup fine tuning any suggestions would be appreciated)
I havent done an all up weight yet but i will eventually. This is my first foamy and I really like it so far. As a helicopter only pilot its taking a little getting used to but once i fine tune the throws and the expo, I really look forward to flying it hard till its gone[8D]
A.J.
EDIT: upon further review this plane rocks!! still need to fine tune but so far i'm all over it.

patzane

the more I fly the Byp the more fun she is to fly.

Ryguy

My Feedback: (1)

Since I've gotten my Fancy Foam Xcalibur flying, I haven't flown the Byp Yak at all. Hope I don't get in trouble for this, but if you thought the Byp Yak was a great plane you have to try th e Xcalibur. Flies even better than the Byp Yak, despite its smaller size, handles wind better, and is slow enough I can fly it no problem and have room to spare in the 3/4 of a basketball court gym at the elementary school where my mom works. Plus, unlike the Byp Yak, it can take a lot of nasty crashes with not a scratch. I'm afraid anymore to fly the Byp just because the Xcalibur has me bringing KE loops down low enough I touch the wingtip on the gym floor. If I tried that with the Byp Yak, it'd be in more pieces than a china set in an earthquake.

patzane

Ryguy who makes the Xcalibur or where can i find it

Ryguy

My Feedback: (1)

Fancy Foam. www.fancyfoam.com

GallopingGhost

OOO my.... why did I take so long to get around to building my Byp Yak? This thing flies great! I only got about 3 flights in on Xmas eve. Of course the weather went to crap today. If I didn't know better I would think this thing was pumped full of helium. One thing I noticed that I have never had a plane be able to do. You can put it in a bank about 1/2 way to knife edge and it flies like it is on rails with no control input. I have never flown anything that slow that is so rock steady. In this bank it seems to be at a transion point where lift from the fuse supports it in flight with no roll or turning. Does anyone with more time on theirs have experience with this?

patzane

GallopingGhost happy to her you had a blast with your Yak. This is a fun plane when the wheather is right. You may have to put some mixing to your input for certain moves. I didn't put any on mine(but it needs some, I got use to the way it flies in KE, rolling circles, ect.) Have fun with the plane as it is a great flying bird.

GallopingGhost

Call me lazy or behind the times but I never have used mixes. I've been flying computer radios since they came out but I must admiit I do not use all the features. Gotta have that Expo though! I've done elevons and flaparons and all that but I know thats not the type mixing you are talking about. What do you use on yours?

rascusn3

I'm thinking of getting this plane and was wondering if a 10 amp esc is enough for the e-flite 370 motor.

rmgmag

You'll probably be OK. I've got a 12 amp esc in mine and I haven't hit the cut-off yet. It also depends on the prop and how much throttle you use. If you over-prop it, you might run up against the cut-off.

ctnic

rascusn3,

I have the castle creations 10 amp esc and can hover for the entire duration of my 480 and 730mah batteries with out any cut offs with the apc 10x3.8 slow flyer prop. I tried the 10x4.7 prop but it would cut out on anything but half throttle or less and ended up melting the plastic on the esc. Stay with the 10x3.8 and you will be fine.

Chris

rascusn3

thanks, also would this be a good 1st 3d plane.