I have received this plane http://www.hobby-lobby.com/extra330.htm. I want to use an E-Flite motor and Castle Creations controller. Which should I get?

If I were you I'd go with a Park 400 Outrunner at 920 Kv, or perhaps the Park 370 outrunner at 1360 Kv, although the 400 would be a little more comfortable. I'd pair either with an E-Flite 20 amp, but if you really want to go castle, then I'd say the Thunderbird 18 should suffice, unless you want to go with the phoenix 25, which would be a little bit overkill, but hey. Throw in a Thunder Power 1320 mah 3S and I'd say you got a killer set up. In fact, I kinda want one of those planes, let me know how it flies. Also, does it really fit in a suitcase, I'd love to have one for vacations!

Thanks loswave. I've had two of this type of plane. The Exteme flite yak and 3d buddy which I just dumb thumbed. I have the one above now but want to go with an outrunner and get rid of the gear box. Both planes fly great.

I ordered the E-Flite 400 and the Phoenix ESC. I guess I didn't really need that but I can always use it with a larger motor. I've been using the TP 1320mah battery with my other system. I guess I can use that stuff on a foamy later. Thanks for the help.
Suit

Cool, it should work out great for you. I might actually buy the same plane and just about the same system, I'd love to have something to take with me on vacations and such, it's be so convenient!

Man that's exactly what I got it for. I have family just outside Cincinnati and went up a couple weeks ago. I took my 3D Buddy extra and got many flights on it while there. I visited the local field and it was, without a doubt, one of the nicest fields I've been to. Tons of shade trees for family and friends and strips two ways so wind isn't an issue. The fellows there were kind to a rebel visitor and were having a local war bird flyin. I flew mine once. Last day before heading home I dumb thumbed her late in the evening and pretty much totaled it. So I ordered the above equipment for replacement. I don't want to be without something to drag along on a trip.

As for the suitcase. Yes, if you want to take it apart, it will go back into the case. They have two wood tabs glued to the wing, two to the fuse. The wing screws on with them. The fuse is slotted to allow the servos to slide out. The wing removes from the fuse in one direction. The horiz. stab is also held on with screws and also slides out to store in the box. You will have to remove the prop too. Due to that, I said the heck with it. It will fit easily in just about any trunk or back seat. I have a Envoy and I can get my suitcases, dog kennel, and airplane in the back without letting the back seats down. I can also get my Jerry's Big Boy, my Sig Mayhem 3D, and electric in the Envoy. I have a carrier to stick in the hitch to carry all my field equipment and gas cans.

Nice, I go to Myrtle beach for two weeks every winter, and it would be friggin awsome to be able to bring a plane with me this year. We always go in february, and here I dare say it's to cold for flying alot of the time, during the winter, so a chance to fly a couple times in nice weather! I may very well get one before the fall is over.

what rimfire will hover this thing?

http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...gpmg4505m.html

I'm new to electrics and would rather run a rimfire and electrifly speed control so i don't need to soder. I just don't know the power as i only have 1 and it flies my flatout...

I doubt it, If you don't want to solder get the E-Flite motor I reccomended along with the 20-amp E-Flite ESC, they have bullet plugs, although you will need to solder on the battery connecter. If your that squeemish about soldering I'm sure someone at your LHS would be happy to help you out. That's what I would reccomend though. because I have a rimfire in my Flatout Turmoil, and it's got good power for that, but I can't imagine it working so well with a plane of this magnitude. Of course, maybe one of those new ones will, I haven't found any usefull information out about them yet. I'd forgotten that they were coming out with them... If it's something you want to do now, you'll be needing to go with something other than the rimfire though.

My soninlaw has a Mini Ultra Stick with a E-Flite 480 and it's a silent wiz. I love the way the motor comes with everything you need. I got the Phoenix so I could move up to a bit larger plane on my next electric. Soldering is no problem, like you say, you can find someone to do it for you for free.

Funny enough i had to sodder my battery wire back on today!

The only difficult part was holding the battery, the battery wire, the sodder AND the iron at the same time...lol

I have my wife hold the battery and the wire to be soddered in place while i held the sodder and iron. she was freaked and cussed at me a few times about the fact that 300 degrees was an inch from her fingers and i was shakin a little but i thought it was funny!!

I was practically born with a soldering iron in my hand lol. You'll find a handy (no pun intedned for those who know where I'm going with this) little tool known as a helping hand/third hand. They're like 6 bucks or so and the have a frame with 2 aligator clips and a magnifying glass, which is seldom necessary. You just put the wire in one aligator clip, and the other item in the other, postition them, and then solder, there's really nothing to it. It's as simple as heat, both objects together add solder directly to the objects not the iron, that'll give you a good strong solder joint. It's seems as though you've got a good start though. Ohh, by the way, most soldering irons get a wee bit hotter than that, most closer to 1000 degrees farenheight. I've been singed by the heat gaurds on mine a couple hundred times, lol. The best part is as long as you don't melt whatever your tinkering with, you can always melt off the solder and try again. It's a good skill to have in this hobby. Hope your plane works out well. I'm probably gonna have to hold off on one myself, I promissed myself a new Trex 450 SE heli first, as some may know are a little pricey...

wow....300 was actually only a guess. So i shouldn't be heating the sodder and kinda dripping it on? if i heat something like a battery board and then the wires, isn't that bad? what will melt the sodder? Are there different ways for different soddering jobs?

thanks a bunch,
Mike

I've burnt myself once with a solder. Didn't hurt, cause it killed the nerves instantly. The mark was gone within a couple weeks.

Anyway, the Rimfire will hover this thing. I've flown the Rimfire on planes up to 15oz, and it still hovered it around half and had unlimited vertical. It's not ballistic, but would work.

Don't worry too much about it. I only posted that because I knew that your a new to soldering and would probably do it that way, that's how most people start without instruction from someone else. Don't get me wrong, that works, but it generally gives whats called a cold solder joint, which is basically weaker. All it means is that you may have to redo it, it's not a big deal though, and it won't hurt anything. Yes, if you heat a PCB up too much it's not good, there is sort of a trick to it. You want good contact between the things you're soldering, so when you add heat, you actually add it to both of them. While they are heating, you press the end of your solder against the the joint, not the iron, and let it melt into the joint, then remove the solder when there is enough in the joint, then remove the iron and let the joint cool. The idea is that you can do it fast enough to not melt the PCB. When I say fast enough I mean something in the nature of 30 sec or so, it doesn't need to happen instantaneously. Also, PCBs can handle a decent amount of heat, they have too, it's the little IC's you gotta watch for. There are certainly different ways, but those are some general guidelines that will apply to most things you will solder. It's just like anything else, the more you do it the better you'll get. Ohh, as for having differnt ways of soldering stuff here's one for you, which you may find helpful. If you go with the combo I suggested, you'll need to solder on a battery plug for your ESC. I would highly reccomend a Deans Ultra Plug. The best way to solder these puppies on is to get that helping hands thing I told you about and put just the plug in one of the aligator clips. Then you heat one of the contact points, and melt a pool of solder onto it, again the contact should be melting the solder, not the iron. Then do the same to the other. Then put a piece of shrick wrap on both wires, and use the aligator clips to position the positive lead to the positive contact point. Now press on the top of the bared wire down onto the hardened puddle of solder on the contact point, and eventually, the wire will melt the puddle and sink into it, remove the iron while making sure the wire doesn't move, and boom theres one perfectly soldered wire. Do the same for the other side, then scootch the heat shrink up, shrink it, and you've got yourself a pro soldering job. I hope that helps. It's like anything else, the more you do it, the better you get, and the better you feel about doing it. Good luck.

UPDATE. I got the motor today and it really looks small. I hope it has power to fly the plane well.

It is small, but according to e-flite it'll handle it. I'm going by weight, and I'd beleive it because my 370 outdoes what I would have thought beyond it's capability.