mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Problem with Hobbycity's motors are that they are hard to compare powerwise. I wish they would list them from low to high power. Would make it alot easier.

r/c nut

Do you think you can fly this BIP in a soccer sized field?

r/c nut

I still can't find the price on their site. $225 is way too much. If it came with a motor and speedo I might go for it. It is a sweet plane but too much $$$$$$

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

Congrats on the maiden kiosk!
I fly in FL too and wonder if the Torque
motor I'm getting will be enough.

Aren't the MG servos you're using be a
little too much weight for this model...just asking.


Ordered the combo from Atlanta Hobby:

[link]http://www.atlantahobby.com/shopexd.asp?id=8053[/link]

Should be here tomorrow or Friday...Can't Wait!!! [8D]

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

R/C nut,

I can fly my .40 size low-wing slimer in a soccer sized field. Do I WANT to?
NO, but it really is all about your proficiency with a particular model and your
ability to keep obstacles, especially high ones, within your periphery whether
by sight or by mind (being familiar of the area your flying in). And for god sakes...
please don't buzz people or homes! Kills our hobby!

Have Fun![8D]

r/c nut

I have been flying for 16 years now so I am not a newbie. I know I could fly my 1/4 scale cub at a soccer field if I wanted to but it would not be too fun as it needs a bigger field. My question was not about proficiency or periphery. I know I could if I wanted to fly most planes in most fields. I was simply wondering, because this is a fairly light BIP for it's size with loads of wing area, and light wing loading, can this plane be comfortably flown in a soccer sized field? Pretty simple question. Of course we can make it more complicated by adding tons of factors to the equation but why? Is this BIP the same weight as a .40 BIP? No. Is the wing loading the same as a .40 BIP? NO. Can this fly slower then it's .40 cousin? I think so.

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

r/c nut,

Please, I repeat...Please don't take my response as an insult to your experience
as I was not necessarily addressing you, but I was just trying to give an example
to those that might not be as experiences as yourself and might want to know the same thing.
I am sure that you will be able to fly this in any field bigger than a small baseball field
but, more inexperienced might want to fly in a wide open area until they get used
to what the plane can and can't do.

And yes, I have flown my .40 on a golf course that I used to live on...I assure you
that was my one and only time that I will do that ever! Our community
college has a soccer field where tons of smaller electrics are flown all the time
and every now and then someone will smack a brand new plane into the
the light posts. That's where your familiarization skills (periphery) with your
flying environment come in. Most of the time it's first time visitors
to that field that smack the light posts and I just HATE seeing that.

Hope this clears things up, I was not trying to get over technical,
just trying to give friendly advice in fact, I'm sure you and a few others here could give
me some advice on this model as I fly mostly glow...Have Fun ![8D]

r/c nut

No worries and no offense taken. I was mostly a giant scale nitro/gas person myself until about 3 or 4 years ago. I sold 98% of my nitro and all of my gas planes and replaced them with electric. I really want a larger scale looking plane that I can fly in my local park. I really hate going to the RC field due to bad personalities latley. I have this park 5 mins from my house that is larger then most soccer/football fields with a great/ roomy landing approach. I fly my E Flite taylorcraft in with plenty of room to spare. I just mentioned my experience just to put you at ease that I am not going to pick up a large electric ARF from the LHS and hit the local kids baseball park and fly over house, not to brag. I fly with people that have been flying for 30+ years. Thanks for your help and keep your wings up and your wheels down.

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

i bit the bullet and got the eflite power 15 on it with a 13x5 pro...huge difference, can torque roll on 1/3 throtle and usually never need pass 1/2 for everything else...i agree horizon got it wrong with 10 size recommendation

newshoundaussie

Kiosk do you have any pictures of the 15 installed? Did you have to move the firewall back to get the motor in? The 15 is quite abit larger and heavier than the 10.

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

literaly a direct fit, had to slide cowl forward just a bit which actually helped a lot in access battery anyways, was pretty cramped in there before for hands to get in

yes is nose heavy now, need add bout 1/2oz to tail

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

Kiosk,
Very nice, what kind of flight times are you getting with the same battery?

Having shipping troubles with my order...first, they didn't have the charger (TP-535) I wanted so
they upgraded to the Bantam e-station 301 DX which was real cool but, I'm still not seeing
any activity on the UPS site. Order was shipped/billed on the 26th and nothing after that.

My brother was misinformed about the battery access in that they told him there is a magnetic hatch
which we now know doesn't exist and they still say the S-75's do not need a programmer. I'm
ready to go to Atlanta and pick the thing up myself!!! It's a new model so I'll forgive them on the info
as long as they get it to me soon!

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

using TP 2200 v2 3s and get about 7min or so, wish it were better but is good enough

newshoundaussie

Thanks for the info Kiosk. I will get a efite 15.

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

Finally got the combo. (Thanks Atlanta Hobby)
Anyone have any issues with the aileron interlinks?
They seem to have to be shaved down to fit flush.
Instructions say to "leave top covering on for aesthetic purposes".
I was able to do this on bottom wing but not on top wing.

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

Well the DSP-75's are pretty crummy. Don't think they are meant for this weight
class. The rudder servo twitches very badly toward neutral. Just sits there
and shakes the rudder and it gets worse and worse until a load
is applied . Could this be something the programmer can fix?

Think I'll go with HS-65's HB servos or MG if I need more tail weight.
What CG are you guys flying at BTW?

I had to use spacers for the Torque motor installation and my reverse
installation prop adapter seems to be bent slightly.

wrpsr1911

DITTO on the DSP 75's-I tried servo programmer and am not satisfied! Still jittering and buzzing, etc. I just ordered Hitec HS 65mg's

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

oh yea, 65MGs are way to go.....I long gave up on spektrum servos are total junk

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

So any one have any problem with the interplane struts warping/dewarping the wings?
I'm praying the incidence on the wings are correct because when I was tightening down on the
screws that secure the wing to the struts, I got a twisting of my bottom wing. I
then took a heat gun and got the wrinkles out of that wing. I'm thinking the wing might
have slightly warped when I cut off covering to repair a rib on the end of that wing.
I used clear monokote to cover it back up which is much thicker than ultracote lite
but, I couldn't find that stuff anywhere.

I will definitely be replacing the rudder servo with a Hitech 54HG or MG depending on how she balances.
Is there issues with using one analog with the remaining digitals?

BTW, what is the proper way to tightening the prop nut? I imagine having a little room
between the spinner and cowl is a useful thing here?

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

OK, so here's to all the local hobby shops that have no idea what a reverse-mount prop adapter is.
You wouldn't believe the looks I endured when I asked about these "elusive" adapters!!!
Unfortunately, mine came a little bent so I was trying to get help locally between
three LHS's to no avail.

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

But enough griping, I ended up actually using 1/2" spacers sanded down about 1/8th of an inch
to achieve a satisfactory spinner plate to cowl spacing.

Just wanted to send a shout out to Greg and the gang at Atlanta Hobby who have made my first
experience setting up an electric airplane very pleasurable, eye opening and rewarding.


The maiden flight will hopefully be this morning . I did replace the twitchy Spektrum
on the rudder with an HS-65HB and will eventually replace all servos with these.

Happy Holidays!

johnchoffman

How does your E-Flite Ultimate 20-300 10e fly. Im an intermediate flyer i.e Parkzone t-28 etc. Thanks John

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

It flies very different than those airplanes in that there are a lot of small corrections
that need to made for aerobatic flight. Surprisingly though, this thing is a baby
to t/o and land. You can land at a snails pace with no fear of tip stalling. Takes
off like it's on rails.

Tip stalling did occur on high rate with high aoa / high speed maneuvers which seems
to be common on most bipes.

The one issue I'm seeing is not enough offset built into the thrust angle. This airplane loves to pull
to the left on high power climb-outs. I'm going to try installing washers to get a little
more down/right thrust.

BTW, does it look like E-Flite put any offset in that firewall
at all? I could be wrong but it seems like a very straight
firewall to me. I'll measure form the prop and see.

All in all, the plane is a blast but, still working through some quirks
like the thrust angle. I did manage to smack a wheelpant and kink a wing
on a downwind deadstick the other day and had to remove them only
to see that Horizon has NOOOOO PARTS FOR THIS THING WHATSOEVER![X(]
Apparently haven't had 'em for a while. What Gives?

I can now see why E-Flite chose the clear covering on the bottom. It's very easy
to check for structural damage to the wings and it's even easier to enter
the wing in strategic areas for repair. I just use some clear MonoKote
to seal up the UC Lite afterwards...can't even tell.

For some reason my motor loves the 11x7 over the recommended 12x6
here in FL. Much more spirited performance for pattern type maneuvers
with just a little decrease in climb performance thus, wouldn't be a good
3D choice. I'm flying this prop to work on getting the plane dialed in
then I'll switch back to the 12.

The Torque motor and Castle ESC combo is great for this bird although
I'm noticing a little "noise" with the Thunderbird 35 which causes rare
occurrences of power off and elevator interference. Time for
a ferrite ring. I've since heard that Castle ESC's are great,
but they're noisy.

Thanks for reading.

Hope everyone had a great Holiday![8D]

blk822

Well I just built one of these pretty planes and am having a problem with the wing twisting when installing the wing struts. I tried switching them to opposite sides and its better but not perfect. Also the vert. stab is warpped and also the rudder. I have written Horizon Hobby....lets see what they say. I really want to fly this plane and not just crash on maiden due to warpped parts. I may need to prop up aslo, with the recommended 12x6 prop I only have 280 watts, would like to be at 350. I'm using a Grim Reaper GR-35 motor and Castle Creations Phoenix 54 amp esc and Hitec hs 65 carbonite servos, also a Kong Power 3s 25c 2200mah battery.CG is right on with this combo.

blk822

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