Control Linkage set up?
#1
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From: West Melbourne,
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Putting together my list of things I need and see some differences in what control horns/clevis to use.
I am going to use 4-40 push rods, but need to know what set up everybody is using on each end? Also, is it ok to use the fully treaded rods so thay can be cut to lenght?
My plan was to use ball links on both ends, is this ok?
All sugestions are appreciated.
MLC
I am going to use 4-40 push rods, but need to know what set up everybody is using on each end? Also, is it ok to use the fully treaded rods so thay can be cut to lenght?
My plan was to use ball links on both ends, is this ok?
All sugestions are appreciated.
MLC
#2
I see this question dropping down without any responses. My guess is that you haven't really given enough information for anyone to figure out what you're trying to accomplish with whatever size plane you might have.
So I'll toss something in anyhow. I'll use a 4-40 rod threaded on one end with a threaded clevis. I'll cut it to length and solder on a solderable clevis on the other end.
But no one knows if you're trying to save weight (you are in the 3D forum afterall) or going for strength or whatever. I can't really comment on the ball links idea. There's a limitless number of responses you could get here and I couldn't say if what I do is right for you (but for sticking with metal gear it's kind of light and simple). I'd try to post again with more specifics.
Good luck
So I'll toss something in anyhow. I'll use a 4-40 rod threaded on one end with a threaded clevis. I'll cut it to length and solder on a solderable clevis on the other end.
But no one knows if you're trying to save weight (you are in the 3D forum afterall) or going for strength or whatever. I can't really comment on the ball links idea. There's a limitless number of responses you could get here and I couldn't say if what I do is right for you (but for sticking with metal gear it's kind of light and simple). I'd try to post again with more specifics.
Good luck
#3

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I will say this. Fully threaded pushrods are probably not a good idea. The threads seem to weaken the pushrods,, and being subjected to tons and tons of flexes they tend to want to break. Try it and see, get a 12" 4 40 pushrod all thread and a unthreaded 4 40 rod and bend them back and forth, I will almost guarantee you that the threaded rod will break on the 1st or second bend.
As mentioned I would either go with a rod threaded on 1 end and a Z bend on the other, or a soldered clevis on the unthreaded end. All new model builders should have a pair of Z bend pliers IMO.
All I use now is carbon fiber pushrods. You can cut them to the exact length, they weigh virtually nothing. And you can setup threaded clevis's on both ends once they are cut to length. I like carbon fiber because it is SUPER light and there is no flex whatsoever, plus it is very clean looking[8D].
As mentioned I would either go with a rod threaded on 1 end and a Z bend on the other, or a soldered clevis on the unthreaded end. All new model builders should have a pair of Z bend pliers IMO.
All I use now is carbon fiber pushrods. You can cut them to the exact length, they weigh virtually nothing. And you can setup threaded clevis's on both ends once they are cut to length. I like carbon fiber because it is SUPER light and there is no flex whatsoever, plus it is very clean looking[8D].
#4
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Ok, let me try this with more information.
I am doning a Flip 3d with a Saito 72 and JR XP6102 PCM. My goal is to have no slop in the control linkages to avoid flutter as much as posible. Have been reading through all these post and think I am going to use the 4-40 Du-Bro heavy duty control horms on the rudder and elevator just like on the Funtana review, but not sure about the ailerons. Will they work there also?
As for the push rods, I think am just going to use the ones (4-40) that are threaded on one end. Then cut them to lenght and cut threads on the other end.
So, what control horms would work best on the ailerons?
As always, thanks for your opinions.
I am doning a Flip 3d with a Saito 72 and JR XP6102 PCM. My goal is to have no slop in the control linkages to avoid flutter as much as posible. Have been reading through all these post and think I am going to use the 4-40 Du-Bro heavy duty control horms on the rudder and elevator just like on the Funtana review, but not sure about the ailerons. Will they work there also?
As for the push rods, I think am just going to use the ones (4-40) that are threaded on one end. Then cut them to lenght and cut threads on the other end.
So, what control horms would work best on the ailerons?
As always, thanks for your opinions.
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From: in,
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#1,
Do not use all thread rod.
As far as cutting and threading the 4-40 rod, No, the rod is not full diameter, the threads are rolled on that rod which brings it up to size. If you cut a thread on the other end, it will be under sized.
You can solder a clevis on the cut end or get some 1/8 gas welding rod and make your own rods threaded on both ends. The welding rod is a bit thicker but with care you can thread it without any problem.
I also like ball links for a nice tight setup, but the heavy duty dubro horns have a long reach, which will allow the ball link to push off to one side, so it's a good idea to use the clevis' that come with them.
Do not use all thread rod.
As far as cutting and threading the 4-40 rod, No, the rod is not full diameter, the threads are rolled on that rod which brings it up to size. If you cut a thread on the other end, it will be under sized.
You can solder a clevis on the cut end or get some 1/8 gas welding rod and make your own rods threaded on both ends. The welding rod is a bit thicker but with care you can thread it without any problem.
I also like ball links for a nice tight setup, but the heavy duty dubro horns have a long reach, which will allow the ball link to push off to one side, so it's a good idea to use the clevis' that come with them.
#8
What about a 2-56 fully threaded that is sleeved in carbon tube JB Welded on? They seem pretty rigid despite being fully threaded, and on the test batch I made, they were lighter than 4-40, and they certainly are easier to set up while eliminating a Z-bend. I decided to try this on my Funtana, I had extra threaded rods that I normally don't use, and though "what the heck!." there is no visible wire, just carbon tube with Dubro ball links at each end.
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From: ROCKINGHAM,
NC
ORIGINAL: Jemo
Yes, just make sure if you solder, that you get a GOOD solder joint or it won't last very long.
Yes, just make sure if you solder, that you get a GOOD solder joint or it won't last very long.
can you expand a little on "good solder joint" my soldering skilz are fine, but are there any specific DO's and DONT's? kind of solder, prep work, etc? thanx...
tim
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
This is what im doing on my funtana!!!
Carbon rod and M3 aluminium fittings on ends www.Petetindal.co.uk
Very good I think.
Carbon rod and M3 aluminium fittings on ends www.Petetindal.co.uk
Very good I think.




