Dual servo's on rudder
#2
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From: Soldotna,
AK
The best way is to get a match box. I have seen the results of not having them matched when two servos fried on two separate occasions.
I played with the linkages on my rudder till I got tired of it and bought hitecs and a programer. Now it is a breeze.
I played with the linkages on my rudder till I got tired of it and bought hitecs and a programer. Now it is a breeze.
#4
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From: Dayton, OH
If you have a computer radio, just mix the servos on two seperate channels. I have a H9 Cap with two rudder servos and I used channel 4 (the regular rudder channel) and channel 7. You just set the travel adjust of channel 7 to match the appropriate positions of channel 4. I did use a current checker from Peak Electronics to be sure I had everything right. You just adjust until you have the lowest current draw from either servo and you are ready to go. Hope this helps.
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From: Soldotna,
AK
You can get the programmer from anyone who sells HITEC for around $100.00. I am using 2 HS5645's on the rudder of my 30% edge. The 5645's are 168oz @ 6v. and there is no blow-back that I can detect. Knife edge loops are no problem and you can just hold the knife edge from one end of the field to the other without any change in attitude or input.
I tried to adjust the travel with the separate channels but then it seemed that the speed of the servos were not quite matched and then it would cause a higher drain.
After I matched all the servos with the programmer I can get 70 minutes with a 2000MA pack and still show 6.15 v left when checked with a 1000MA load. There is also NO buzzing or whining as is the norm with digital servos once they were programed identically.
As for mechanically matching the servos, I always do this first.
Make sure that each servo output shaft in EXACTLY the same distance from the hinge line, the control horns are exactly the same distance from centerline on each side and that the servo arm is perpendicular to the hinge line when at center. If you are using threaded control horns such as Rocket City or Sullivan etc. that the distance from the control surface to the centerline of the linkage is the same. To then match up servos without a programmer you can run the linkage in or out a turn or two to match the individual servo throw. You can get it close but I bet there will still be the "digital whine" on the servos as they work against each other throughout the sweep.
I tried to adjust the travel with the separate channels but then it seemed that the speed of the servos were not quite matched and then it would cause a higher drain.
After I matched all the servos with the programmer I can get 70 minutes with a 2000MA pack and still show 6.15 v left when checked with a 1000MA load. There is also NO buzzing or whining as is the norm with digital servos once they were programed identically.
As for mechanically matching the servos, I always do this first.
Make sure that each servo output shaft in EXACTLY the same distance from the hinge line, the control horns are exactly the same distance from centerline on each side and that the servo arm is perpendicular to the hinge line when at center. If you are using threaded control horns such as Rocket City or Sullivan etc. that the distance from the control surface to the centerline of the linkage is the same. To then match up servos without a programmer you can run the linkage in or out a turn or two to match the individual servo throw. You can get it close but I bet there will still be the "digital whine" on the servos as they work against each other throughout the sweep.



