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3D setup on Heckler 3D

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Old 07-06-2004 | 12:12 PM
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From: Clermont, FL
Default 3D setup on Heckler 3D

I'm new to 3D. Well, I've been flying a Wattage Crazy8 for a while doing all kind of crazy things, but I'm new to spoilerons and flaperons. I just put my Heckler 3D together with an OS Max 46 AX and I would like to know how to set up spoilerons and/or flaperons for hovering and harrier. Haven't had the maiden flight yet, but as it is I have a switch program to make the ailerons go up together at the same time as the elevator.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Old 07-06-2004 | 12:31 PM
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Default RE: 3D setup on Heckler 3D

From what Ive seen spolierons are sometimes used in Harriers to kill the lift to stop wing rocking, but for hovering and such I don't think you'd need flaperons or spoilerons at all.
Old 07-06-2004 | 01:16 PM
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Default RE: 3D setup on Heckler 3D

I love my Heckler. I have a GMS .47 on it. Your best prop will be an APC 11.5-4. It'll give you finer control than one of the 12 inch props.

Set flaperons on your radio, but have the flaps go the same direction as the elevator. After experimenting, I found 75% worked best. The Heckler will hold nose high at full up elevator and spoilers and you can control altitude with small changes in power. This is the reason you want fine control on the power. You can elevator nearly straight down and use power to cushion the landing. Or you can harrier around using rudder for steering.

I have more than 45 degrees of elevator and aileron. I am using digital servos, JRs in the wings and Hitech minis for elevator & rudder. I moved the rudder servo to on top the fuselage and am using pull-pull. Some people also put the elevator servo on the side in the rear.

Run some weed eater line around the fin tip, stab tips and lower fuselage. I broke the fin doing a blender and my pull-pull and the tail wheel wire held everything together so I could get it on the ground.

You'll need some trim on the bottom if you want to tell the difference in top & bottom on a sun lit day. I put salad plate sized, fluorescent dots on the bottom.

Recently I had to take the covering off the bottom and re-glue the shear webs on the right side. Blenders again-they can be pretty violent. The shear webs were loose or off on the whole right side of the wing. I used 30-minute epoxy to secure them back and re-covered the bottom in red & yellow checkerboard for visibility.

I side mounted the engine since it put the carb pretty high above the tank. You'll need to angle it down slightly to clear the gear. I mounted the engine before I checked muffler clearance so I had to go to a wider gear, a KrazyLegs gear.

Switch to 4-40 rods on the ailerons.

I know this sounds like a lot, but I have been working mine out. When you do a fast blender, you can almost feel the g's. I am surprised more planes don't fold wings or lose engines to the forces.
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