Capiche pilots
#2
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Well I can tell you how my build of the C50 as gone for a start.
The kit came in perfect condition and everything was there as prescribed except for the throttle run and maybe one or two sheets of balsa but this wasn't a major problem, the balsa which was selected was of the right grade which was nice but it was interesting to see that one of the sheets had cros grain! (speckled finish), which added a bit of extra strength to one wing while sheeting
The build couldnt have been easier for a divot (cheers for that Phil [&:]) like me, as long as you read the instructions twice and look at the plans (which of course I didn't). The fuz was pretty much self jigging as part of it was built in my hand with a bent table and it still came out straight.
The wing was simular but there were less interlocking parts than the fuz which was expected, I don't think there will be CNC sheeting with tabs yet
After weighing the board and crap down with tons of bricks the jigs were pinned down and the wing pinned down through the jigs which meant it was almost impossible for the wing to move which it didn't and thankfully I have a straight wing, the building of the wing was straightforward as well. Just snap your centre ribs through the main brace and stick all the other ribs on 1/4 hard balsa, then sheet, web, sheet, cap, swear etc. Alierons were built up as well and I made a stupid mistake when I glued the alieron horn plate in the wrong position which resulted in a messy surgery. [X(]
I had a little bit of trouble with the tail surfaces mainly beause it was a bit tricky to get the angles right (in both directions), most of my cuts came out ok and I did cheat and use specks of filler but needless to say its a pretty stiff thing when finished.
I chose Proflim for my covering and now I will never use solarflim again! My covering job was a bit crap in places, which is part to the fact this being my first kit (therefore less than perfect building and joints), part to the iron (a bog standard clothes iron no proper model iron) and part to the fact I havn't done much covering except repairs.
The model feels light though after using almost 4 bottles of cyano ([sm=drowning.gif] !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) I can't think it will be at 5Lbs but will be pleasanlty suprised if it does, which if it does will show that this design, building wise, is better than I thought it to be.
Which is already, pretty damn good.
The kit came in perfect condition and everything was there as prescribed except for the throttle run and maybe one or two sheets of balsa but this wasn't a major problem, the balsa which was selected was of the right grade which was nice but it was interesting to see that one of the sheets had cros grain! (speckled finish), which added a bit of extra strength to one wing while sheeting

The build couldnt have been easier for a divot (cheers for that Phil [&:]) like me, as long as you read the instructions twice and look at the plans (which of course I didn't). The fuz was pretty much self jigging as part of it was built in my hand with a bent table and it still came out straight.
The wing was simular but there were less interlocking parts than the fuz which was expected, I don't think there will be CNC sheeting with tabs yet

After weighing the board and crap down with tons of bricks the jigs were pinned down and the wing pinned down through the jigs which meant it was almost impossible for the wing to move which it didn't and thankfully I have a straight wing, the building of the wing was straightforward as well. Just snap your centre ribs through the main brace and stick all the other ribs on 1/4 hard balsa, then sheet, web, sheet, cap, swear etc. Alierons were built up as well and I made a stupid mistake when I glued the alieron horn plate in the wrong position which resulted in a messy surgery. [X(]

I had a little bit of trouble with the tail surfaces mainly beause it was a bit tricky to get the angles right (in both directions), most of my cuts came out ok and I did cheat and use specks of filler but needless to say its a pretty stiff thing when finished.
I chose Proflim for my covering and now I will never use solarflim again! My covering job was a bit crap in places, which is part to the fact this being my first kit (therefore less than perfect building and joints), part to the iron (a bog standard clothes iron no proper model iron) and part to the fact I havn't done much covering except repairs.
The model feels light though after using almost 4 bottles of cyano ([sm=drowning.gif] !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) I can't think it will be at 5Lbs but will be pleasanlty suprised if it does, which if it does will show that this design, building wise, is better than I thought it to be.
Which is already, pretty damn good.
#3
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From: London,Beckton, UNITED KINGDOM
hey shahid thanks for the contribution but what percentage shipping tax do have to add to an item from the US to fid the total price.
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
I dunno about exact costs, but the first cost comes from weight, then the shipper add a £60 tax about 2 weeks after you pay if its fed-ex to put you off from imorting from the us again because of some loony trade law thing. I try to avoid importing any model thing from the us it can be pointless due to the cost of importing, sometimes the same price as what you are getting.
Best thing is to try and get a full quote from the people you are buying stuff from including evrything.
Also go to the website of who ever is shipping your stuff (Fed-Ex, UPS etc etc) and look into terms and conditions there,
hope this helps
shahid
Best thing is to try and get a full quote from the people you are buying stuff from including evrything.
Also go to the website of who ever is shipping your stuff (Fed-Ex, UPS etc etc) and look into terms and conditions there,
hope this helps
shahid
#5
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From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
Have had a great time flying both the C 50 and the C140. i Love them both more than any of my other planes
here are pics of my C50 in action.

here are pics of my C50 in action.

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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Whats the scheme like Ian? I was thinking that blob thing you wanted to do, Roland or Wolfgang Matt, would be pisssss easy.
#12
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From: London,Beckton, UNITED KINGDOM
norman is building our tojeiro's like shockies but better.I havent flown my C140 much because i am a waiting an aluminium wing pole to insert into the carbon one but as soon as i get it , its 3D time bye gotta go to bed.
#13
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From: Blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
Me n paul had a smashing time with our 50's a couple of weeks ago.
Pauls elevator servo expired.
Me engine expired in a prop hang......hence retractable U/C.
Pauls elevator servo expired.
Me engine expired in a prop hang......hence retractable U/C.
#14
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From: blender land, UNITED KINGDOM
i owned the first prototype 140 for a while before trading it for a fiberclassic extra,superb machine though,will have my new 140 finisheed soon[8D]but my 50 is still going strong and will be out flying this weekend.
#17
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From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
My C140 i love it so much
Cant say anything else really just got back from flying and im still speachless. Does every pattern /3d move effortlessly
Cant say anything else really just got back from flying and im still speachless. Does every pattern /3d move effortlessly
#18
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From: London,Beckton, UNITED KINGDOM
very nice hopefully next week i will take the camera to get some shots of me flying my C140 and i must say your gettin low with your C140.
#19
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
I have to admit, id love to have a C140, but, and dont kill me for saying this, i couldnt justify paying 350 for a KIT wen i can get a ARF funtana for 270...............unless henrys hanger build things quite cheep, which i doubt aswell
Luke, just noticed, on ur C50, how did youu manage the wing curvy bits near the root to fade out? is it paint?
Luke, just noticed, on ur C50, how did youu manage the wing curvy bits near the root to fade out? is it paint?
#20
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From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
No its printed onto overlander vinyl.
In my opinion Edible you are comparing an elite freestyle model to a Freetyle/3D funfly. The C140(without the need for spoilerons i might add) will do all the 3D the funtana can do and then kick its arse at pattern. The funtana seems to fly a little slower though. It will be interesting to see if Welsh3D agrees when he flies it.
Honestly hand over heart i could justify paying a lot more than £350 for a kit of such pedigree. Ali flew his last sept RCME instead of his Synergy 1403D, and thats nigh on double the price.
But for someone with little building facilities to build the 140ex, like yourself, an ARF funtana would probably be a better option-after all look how well Nathans done with his. But i would however recommend that when you have more building experience and a bit more dosh take a second look.
In my opinion Edible you are comparing an elite freestyle model to a Freetyle/3D funfly. The C140(without the need for spoilerons i might add) will do all the 3D the funtana can do and then kick its arse at pattern. The funtana seems to fly a little slower though. It will be interesting to see if Welsh3D agrees when he flies it.
Honestly hand over heart i could justify paying a lot more than £350 for a kit of such pedigree. Ali flew his last sept RCME instead of his Synergy 1403D, and thats nigh on double the price.
But for someone with little building facilities to build the 140ex, like yourself, an ARF funtana would probably be a better option-after all look how well Nathans done with his. But i would however recommend that when you have more building experience and a bit more dosh take a second look.
#21
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
im meaning the [link=http://www.sebart.it]seba funtana[/link]
aparently its better than the EMHW funtana being both lighter and stronger with other modifications. as i would go electric with a 2 meter plane id get the electric funtana
or
http://www.flightpower.co.uk look at the empress, if i ever got 600 quid id get one, looks beautiful and is specially designed for electric, aparently its just an electric majestic. they do a fly before you buy for B cert. pilots, i may give it a go, there local to me
capiche tho........i want one, but my building facilities are limeted and i dont have a huge amount of time (flying too much).
aparently its better than the EMHW funtana being both lighter and stronger with other modifications. as i would go electric with a 2 meter plane id get the electric funtana
or
http://www.flightpower.co.uk look at the empress, if i ever got 600 quid id get one, looks beautiful and is specially designed for electric, aparently its just an electric majestic. they do a fly before you buy for B cert. pilots, i may give it a go, there local to me
capiche tho........i want one, but my building facilities are limeted and i dont have a huge amount of time (flying too much).
#22
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
eddy, if probuild built a C140 it would cost about £2500-£3000 labour without any parts. i would say Henrys Hanger would charge about £1500-£2000 labour
this is just based on my experience (i have had planes built by both) but Henrys build quality was absulutly superb, worth every penny
this is just based on my experience (i have had planes built by both) but Henrys build quality was absulutly superb, worth every penny
#23
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Ian I agree £350 is ouchie for a kit, very ouchie....But if it is a top model I may justify it but I have yet to fly one
CAPICHE 50 FLYS TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!
CAPICHE 50 FLYS TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!


