Set Up for U Can Do 60
#1
Thread Starter

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hi guys
After reading most posts on both U Can Do's Im still unsure as to how to set this plane up. Im new to 3D and have been flying pattern a bit. I Have a 60 size and a YS110 16x6.
What mixing do you use?
Is 3% r thrust enough? How much up or down thrust is used?
What is the most desirable COG used?
I basically want to learn to hover! Any help will be welcome..
Thanks
After reading most posts on both U Can Do's Im still unsure as to how to set this plane up. Im new to 3D and have been flying pattern a bit. I Have a 60 size and a YS110 16x6.
What mixing do you use?
Is 3% r thrust enough? How much up or down thrust is used?
What is the most desirable COG used?
I basically want to learn to hover! Any help will be welcome..
Thanks
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Clarks Summit, PA
Mmmmmmm,,,,,,,,YS 110. Well your off to a great start. With that bad boy and a 16/6, you need at least 4 degrees of right thrust. Pick up some Ernst thrust plates from Quantum Models. No up/down thrust is needed. As far as CG goes, I'm at 5-5/8 aft. Its really a personal preference. Their out there any where from stock to 6-1/4 aft. A 17/4 APC will help bite into a hover greatly and enhances other manuevers. Good luck, Joe
#3
Thread Starter

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Thanks for your reply cumn thru that info assisted me greatly. One last question, have you got any mixing going on with your U can Do?
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Clarks Summit, PA
Yes, you will find two nasty habits on this bird. When applying rudder, it will drop the opposite wing, at the same time it will dive to the wheels. The wing drop is due to the large volume of rudder on the top end of that barn door. It can be mixed out. I chose to remove app. 30 sq. in. from the top and upper trailing edge, problem solved. At this point I have my elevator slaved to the rudder for the dive to the wheels. Untill I can sort that out, the mix will have to do. Those bad habits in the air, make it a real handfull in a strong crosswind landing. My personal feelings are that the control surfaces on the tail are too large. With 3D settings it will stall and snap, even when starting a maneuver from stall speed. With my rudder down to 50 sq. in. from 80 sq. in. it will still high alpha KE on low rates, and KE loop on high rates. I no longer have the recommended 3D throws set. One more tip, the block that secures the hor. stab. to the tail with two bolts, Its a very high stress area, so when installing, epoxy the front and back ends, the bare wood ends, to the fuse before bolting on. No need to glue the block to the stab or the stab to the fuse, just the ends. Its a linear stress problem. After two years my landing gear is still intact and stock tail wheel works fine. Also one of the best items that I have used to date on this is the pinned hinges. BTW, I used HD control horns, ball links and 4/40 rods. The weight is needed on the tail to balance anyway. Good luck, Joe



