Anybody having any problems with the Funtana Snap Rolling with to much elevation ? I heard to not go past 45 degrees with the elevators.

No problems....this is again a symptom of the ARF system putting higher performance (wonderfully affordable) aircraft in the hands of people who aren't really experienced. (********rocks, i'm not critisizing you, glad you asked.)

First off: any plane can snap with too much elevator. balancing a plane further back will increase this tendancy. However, in a 3d plane, that is what you want...that is what makes it a good 3D plane. The solution is to not use too much elevator too fast if you don't want it to snap.

Second off: regarding the 45 degrees of elevator. it's not how many degrees of elevator you have, its how many you use. when you are really using the full throw for something like a "Wall"....both wings stall right away and it won't snap. However, if you make a weak attempt at a wall (say 30 degrees of elevator)....you give one wing time to stall before the other and you snap over. Also you are using max elevator during hovers and high alpha when it is really just deflecting airflow and the wings are stalled already.....

Hope that helps, David S. Tampa, fl

oh yeah....."FUN-tana"

Ive just heard different things from different people, some say the elevators are out of balance and some say its from to much deflection or cg is to far back.

Rocks, I still have to ask the same question from the other thread.

How many degrees of elevator movement do you have? Is it more than 45 degrees and are they equal in all three sections (upper, mid and lower quadrants)? If so, your horizontal stab many be slanted to one side which would make it snap when too much elevator is applied? Are you laterally balanced also? Do you think you could be snapping it from stick movement also? Just thoughts of what may could be happening.

Buzz Dave nailed it. People who think they are ready for this type of plane can now afford it, but they are not really ready. All 3D planes really should be set up with dual rates, for the two types of flying they will do, flying on the wing and flying on the prop. There is a big grey area between these two areas of the flight envelope, and some planes are snappier than others in that area, some allows you to mush the plane in that area. There are exceptions where high rates can be used at speed, like the Wall, Blenders and perhabs other maneuvers, but if the pilot is inexperienced, you will hear stories about the plane snapping with too much elevator, dooooooooooo, all planes snap or stall with to much elevator when flying on the wing, or the elevator stalls.
DKjens

Hey DTB thanks for the reply, I will check into all that.


When your talking about balancing your meaning the wings ( left or right ) ?

THanks.

********rocks, put the wings on but leave the canopy off. Measure the former by the wing tube and mark its center point (form side to side). Wrap a piece of string around the formare at the mark and lift. Repeat several times. If a wing is always low add a little weight to the light wing tip.

Take 2 small light STRAIGHT rods about one foot long. Tape them to the elevator halves so they almost meet behind the rudder forming a V. They must be taped securely and remain flat to the elevator half. Turn the raio and plane on. If they don't meet point to point behind the rudder then start adjusting linkage. Pull full up elevator. Did they track the same and end up at the same point? May need to make some adjustments. Push full down elevator. Did the rod tips track together and end up at the same place?


That said, if you try and use too much elevator on too tight a loop, even with a good setup you can make the plane snap out.

Ed M.

********Rocks, yes I am referring to the lateral balance (left to right). Bentgear is exactly right also on how to check all those measurements. He and I talked about setting up the elevator halves before at the field and the way he described is the exact way I set mine up. It works great.

Thanks DTB, Anybody need a great set of wingbags & tail stab bags for the Funtana 90 ?

I do. Contact me at [email protected]

Tony

So are you saying .......if you have money, your more experienced and a better flyer? And how do they get experience? Go out and build a kit?

WHAT A SNOB!
Thats why I don't fly at a club closest to me it's filled with BIG planes and BIG egos. It is wearing thin.

I sure you are a nice person; I'm just tired of this attitude!

dOOd,,, you've got some "issues". Please keep them private, we do not want to know about them,,, this is a thread about the Funtana 90 !!!

So it's ok if we insert eliteist views as long as we stay on subject?

This must have struct close to home.

Funtanna wings are tapered and will snap easlier!

How this for staying on subject!

Nevermind[]

After you fly long enough with 50+ degrees on the elevator you'll realize that Dave nailed the answer for all planes, including the Funtanna 90, 40 ........


Some designs worse than others.

has any one put a 150 on a funtana 90 although i have been critisizine the overpowering of there airplanes i am now consitering my options on what my dad is willing to let me put on an airplane and that happens to be the ebgine ... he hates it becsaue of the muffler raddleing off and went back and welded the muffler to a bracket and then to the motor mount lol it isnt going ne where ever again

I was just asking around if anybody is catching wind of it being an easy plane to snap, thats what I heard so thats why I started this thread.

Plane - The plane is actually one of the best diverse planes out there to fly, I have flown just about everything out except a jet which who 3D's with a jet ? ha ha


Engine - Ive been hearing alot of things about overpowering and its bad its wrong its evil. I had a YS 1.10 on my Funtana 90 and it flew pretty well, could use more power when needed. SO I upgraded to a YS 1.40 Sport on it and it flys even better with unlimited power.


Flack - I got so much flack about putting the YS 1.40 on there but in reality is that the people giving the flack has never flown the plane or hovered it with a YS 1.10 over the deck.
If the airframe is going to come apart, its usually not the power that kills an airplane, its the speed.



Questions For Others : What are some of the engines you all put on the Funtana 90 ?

Saito 180 on mine. I agree with you. Power isn't a problem. Its speed. There is a throttle for a reason. I still added weight to nose to balance at 7.125". I need to move to pull-pull and get that weight off there. I did use CF gear and Titanium axles.

A Webra 1.20 for mine. Haven't flown it yet so can't tell you about it.

OS 1.20, like you could use some more power, luckily it flies out of anything.

Anyone ever put a two popper 100 on this thing?? Well besides me?

I put a new Magnum 120 four stroke on mine. After brench running the engine I'm able to get 8,800 rpm with an APC 16 X 4 wide prop running rich on 15% fuel. Once the engine breaks in complety I'll see what rpm the engine will peek out at. I may try a APC 17 X 4 wide with a different percentage fuels and see what rpm's are there. Of course I'll need a taller landing gear for this prop. This will have to wait till the Spring as it's getting cold and windy here in New England.

With the rudder servo mounted under canopy I balanced right at the recommended 7 1/8 inch CG mark. The plane weighted in at just over 9 pounds. The first two flights were with a slight wind. The plane was just stable enough to track straight. The nightmare started when I tried to land. Every time I throttled to idle the plane would balloon into the wind and almost stall. I had to add power to recover and come around again. I was finally able to land with power and down elevator.

Back at the workshop I added six oz. on the engine mounting box and a TruTurn spinner. It now balanced out a 6 1/2 inches CG at 9 ½ pounds. I had three flights in light wing (5-10 MPH) and what a difference. It flew as if it was on rails and the landing was no problem at all.

As far as setting the CG my recommendation is to add the extra nose weight to get it to fly the way you want it for normal flying just to get use to the plane. After you are comfortable with the CG start rearranging the equipment to get ride of the excess lead, i.e. rudder servo mounted under canopy, Battery and engine servo as far forward as possible. I will now be moving my battery pack and engine servo into the cowl.

To get back to the recommended CG for 3D flying you can then remove any excess nose weight or add a little tail weight.

I'm still hoping for decent flying weather befoe it gets too cold.