Anyone here involved with IMAC? I am getting ready to start flying IMAC and was wondering what I need to do in order to be able to compete? Do I have to join another group? I have AMA, and my h9 edge 540 for IMAC, I have the rulebook and all the sequences to practice, but other than that I am uncertain?

Shortman, where do you live (just curious). Sounds like you have all the basics. You've been (I assume, since you have the rulebook) to the IMAC web site at www.mini-iac.com , and have an idea of the aresti symbols and what manuevers are involved in the class you're choosing. Your AMA is a requirement, and most contests require you be a member of IMAC (about $25 per year or so).

Your H9 Edge fits the bill for flying Sportsman class or higher, while ANY plane is allowed to compete in IMAC's Basic class.

The main idea is to HAVE FUN while getting your feet wet, ask questions of guys at the contests, you'll find most to be eager to help. When flying at your home field, it's helpful to begin to fly with "purpose". That's to say that when doing a loop, do a GOOD one. Rather than simply pulling elevator, notice details: Your entry speed is determined in large part, to the amount of power you have available. If you're using, say, a 1.20 two stroker, then you'll need a full throttle entry so as to build speed and momentum. You'll need to tighten up the circumference a bit since speed bleeds off. You'll relax your "pull" elevator a bit, as you approach the top of the loop, so as to keep it round. You'll back out of the throttle on the backside downline so as not to build up speed. You'll use your pull elevator to guide the plane to an exit that's the same altitude, heading, and track as the entry point. If you're using, say, an OS 1.60FX that give the plane unlimited vertical, then your entry speed can be much slower, since you don't need momentum to get you through vertical manuevers, rather you use POWER to do them. Now you enter the loop at maybe 1/2 throttle (slower) and throttle up to full as you pull elevator. The loop can be taller since the engine can pull you through the top and have enough speed so the plane isn't wallowing. On the up line engine P-factor or torque may pull the nose to the left, so you counter with a smidge of right rudder to compensate. You again throttle back on the top side while easing back on the pull elevator to keep the circumference of the loop round. You downline and exit is the same as above, but the major difference the extra power made was that the loop could be a lot more constant speed (enter at 40 mph, up at 35 mph, over top at 35 mph, down at 45 mph, exit at 40 mph). A less powerful engine means you enter at 75, up at 50, over the top at 35, downline at 45, exit at 45. Even if both these loops had the same roundness, tracking, etc, you'd get a higher score on the more constant speed one, since STYLE points do count.

It's the DETAILS that make the difference, anyone can do a "pull elevator" loop. When you can break the manuever down and address all it's parts, you become a MUCH better pilot. Consider this: when you were 12 or 13 watching Mom and Dad drive the family car, I'm SURE you thought to yourself "I can do that!", because it didn't look hard at all. The first time you got behind the wheel, you found out that it wasn't nearly as easy as you had thought, and had trouble just staying in your lane, rowing the steering wheel back and forth. Next time you drive down a street, pay attention to the movement of the steering wheel; no more rowing, you're barely moving the wheel, making corrections for the car's movement that you CAN'T even see. the car isn't weaving in the lane, because you're catching the slight drifting when it just STARTS rather than catching it when you've crossed the center line. The difference is that your brain has learned to make corrections early while the drift is minor, and requires minor correction. Driving time behind the wheel did that for you. Stick time with your plane will do the same thing. You can tell who IS getting the stick time, and who ISN'T just by watching them fly. Guys say that big birds handle wind gusts better than smaller planes, but i'm thinking the gap isn't as large as people think. Rather, the many times pilots flying big birds have more stick time than those flying smaller planes and. similar to the above example, are able to make minute corrections at the START of the planes reaction to a gust, dampening the planes bouce in reaction to the gust. These same pilots would also probably be a lot smoother flying the smaller planes in gusts also.

Anyway, enough rambling (fingers are tired). There's no magic in flying well. It's like when you were in school and were taking the final exam. The "A" grades weren't reserved for any one group, anyone who wanted an "A" could get an "A". Just do the homework, right? Want to fly well, get the stick time, and make it QUALITY stick time by flying with purpose, rather than just boring holes in the sky. BTW, I flew Intermediate class IMAC this past summer at the only contest I could get to and won class. Moving up to Advanced class next year.

Tim

Tim

hey Tim, I figured you would be the one to answer first, hehe

heres my set-up as I see it now


engine: OS 1.60FX with Jett-in-cowl muffler

prop: mejzlik 18x6

servos: JR 8411's all around

standard for throttle

battery pack: superbatterypacks AA 6 volt 1830 mah Nihm pack

moose carbon fiber landing gear

rocket city hardware all the way around

airwild servo arms

carbon fiber pushrods from central hobbies

and a mk bellcrank from central hobbies



thats what im thinking of at the moment.... BTW im 15 in one month hehe, i got a jump start.... Wayne and other modelers tell me how smooth you fly