emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

After reading just about all the info on the funtana 90 here, and ordering mine, I came up with all this stuff to get for it... but I wanna hear a few words on it first...

YS 110 with 16x6 apc, guys at the shop laughed when I said 16x6 for a 110, what do you say???
Robart 3/16 hinges w/ jig, epoxy or poly glue???
Dubro HD control arms (.91+ size)
Dubro HD pull pull w/ cable (.91+ size)
Dubro quick fill
Dubro remote glow, is onboard glow that important???
Dubro metal/rubber motor mount 30$, is this really necessary???

Servos:
Right now I have a hitec 325HB, and some futaba 3004's, from what i've read, these will be ok for the rudder and split elevator (i will be running 6V so they are above the manuals minimum torque) but i'm still weary of them, do you think it will fly with these on the wings too? I know it will fly, but I dont know if they have the holding power to keep it from fluttering, should they be ok for absolutely no fast flying? I'll be getting some 635HB's or better, but dont have the funds just yet, maybe not for a while... should I give it a try or just wait it out? 81mg or 225mg for throttle?

Will I need to reinforce/pin the firewall for this motor?

lastly, what did you do to seal your control gaps? I was thinking some clear coating, others say packing tape...

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

You could drill and pin the firewall for good measure, but I don't think it is a requirement. You shouldn't need onboard glow unless you mount the engine inverted, and then with a YS, you probably still don't need it. I used yellow monokote to seal my aileron hinge gaps, but left the tail feathers alone cause it ain't worth the trouble. Get some good servos for the wings with at least 100 oz in. and you won't have to worry about flutter. I used the stock CA hinges in mine and have had no problems.The tail is thin, so I'd use CA there anyway, but it might be a good idea to go with the Robarts on the wings. No additional tail bracing is needed as long as you sand the rod ends good and get 1/2" engagement in both ends. I used 30 min epoxy and all are doing fine.

Mount the gear with 1/4 20 nylon bolts so you won't have to make the gear mount mod like the rest of us. Get the Sullivan 10-12# tailwheel assy and a 1" tailwheel. You'll need to mount a piece of 1/8 ply back there to screw it to. I notch out the balsa and cut a piece to fit, cover over with some yellow m'cote.

We'll be waiting for you flight report.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

For sure, Yes. [sm=thumbup.gif] The 16 x6 apc is the perfect prop. Some like the 17 x4w also.

What size did the guys think it should run?

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

I don't know what it is about some people on R/C Universe. Instead of reading the main thread for a particular plane, they create their own and ask the same questions. Emnm79, you should not fly the F90 without metal gear servos for the airelons and you need strong servos for the rudder and elevator. Use hinge tape or clear monocote to seal the hinges. ALL of the information that you need is in the main F90 thread with the same questions asked by many guys that have been flying the F90's for a while.

Do some reading and use the search.

R/C Foolish

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

They were saying 16x4w at most, they only mess with saito motors not that I dont like them, but I've heard way too much good stuff on the 110 to pass it up...

I'll go pickup some nylon bolts when it gets here, I don't know if its the same design fuse, but a funtana 40 around here has already ripped the gear out twice , I was planning on trying the stock gear and picking up some graphtec tail gear, I like the looks and design of the sullivan but I heard from a couple people that its junk, and I love CF graphtec seems good about replacing delaminated peices too

What about the karbonite gears? I read before that they have less play than metal gears, but I know that is already negligible, and I dont think that little bit of play could cause flutter, but who knows

"After reading just about all the info on the funtana 90 here", I spent way too much time going through that giant clusterfork of a thread, found alot of information, but some stuff was still unclear, Mr. Search Police

Thanks, should maiden it, or hope to, around the end of the month

BKH

My Feedback: (4)

Maybe some people dont want to dig through all those posts. Whats the big deal? Why even bother replying if youre just gonna be an a*s. Some people.. I swear. Thats why I like The Cirkus.

And about the airplane, 635hb's in mine no problems. The stock tailwheel sucks. Dont bother with a quick fill, just a place for an air leak IMO. Also if the motor is running right, no need for an onboard glow, keep it light and have fun.
Brian

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

cool, I really like the HB's that I have now, and the 635's aren't expensive at all... I got the other dubro fill thing that is just a fuel line plug that snaps into a piece in the fuselage, so you just unsnap it, take the plug out of the 3rd line to the tank, and put a regular filler on it, and now that I think about it, I could just put a T in the fuel line for it couldn't I. Time to pick up some graphtech

BKH

My Feedback: (4)

Dont use a "T" just run a third line to the tank and turn it towards the bottom of the tank. I'm not sure about a YS but fuel will just run out of the carb while fueling with most motors unless you pinch the line to the carb. The carbon gear would be nice. I have to bend my stock gear down every now and again for prop clearance. Im running a Webra 120 with a 17-4w.
Brian

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

I had a tee in mine , but changed it because i didn't like having to close the needle to fuel it. Much better with three lines and two clunks in the tank.

BKH

My Feedback: (4)

There you go

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

16x6 or 17x4w The 16x6 will produce more thrust. As proven by GPS and JOE. the 17x4w seems to me to be my favorite though. i would get both and see wich you like.. also GP had sent me a link to servo city that has great proces and multiple servo discounts on servos that may help http://www.servocity.com/ . depends on budget .. 645mg will work well. if it was me i wouuld go 6v. 5645s are also a good digital for that app. or if you like other brands other than hitec they have them too at great prices.. I used all stock hardware with no problems. i have old syle wing that dont have the extra rib at servo mount with no problems. i sealed my ailerons on one side with clear monokote. i mounted the motor inverted and have tank on CG (or behindwing tube rather)

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

I may be wrong, But I don't think it'll be a problem on the YS 110
and a "T"... I use the simple "T" and plugs on my YS 63 and no
problems at the carb. while fueling...

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

Yea I got the quick fill "fuel dot" thing that includes an extra clunker so I'll probably go that route, at first I thought two clunkers might get caught/tangled/etc but If I have to close the carb or needle forget that... how much clearance will a 17x4 prop have? My usual field isn't the smoothest will the 17x4 be ok for break in or should I stick with a 16x4 for that? Thanks for the servocity link

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

with the YS you will have to have at least 1 T.. i run a 3 line setup as you do and i put the T on the pressure side.. the T will give you an overflow line when fueling and should be between check valve and tank. you will need a plug for that line too.. i also use dubro kwick fills and even on my non YS planes put it on a 3rd line because sometimes they can stick. if they are in same line carb is on they can lead to headaches and dead sticks if they stick. on the 3rd line there is "usually" no problem. but back to the fuel setup. i run first line from kwick fill to a line that runs to bottom of tank (curved down tube) second line is normal clunk line that goes through fuel filter to fuel inlet on motor. third line goes to what is normally vent (curved up tube) for pressure with T for overflow as i stated earlier

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

i broke mine in with the 17x4 but a smaller one will make inital tuning easier thinking back on hindsight. the 17x4 was lugging it down pretty good at first and took me a little while to get it at a good running setting at first. The YS needle valve is not installed when you get it so you have to set it yourself. luckily i was close because i had to hand start it at the time because my spinner had not come in at the time

wildnloose

Personally I believe the 2 fuel dots, 2 tee's is the best way to plumb a YS (you have to vent the pressure before you refill). A diagram should be included in your instructions. Don't use the quick fill, it will cause frustration. No need to pinch fuel lines either.

The 16x6 should be fine (see ys threads in engine forum and look at www.ysperformance.com).

No need for onboard glow (ahhh the beauty of a ys engine).

Rubber mount?? A personal option. I only use a hyde mount on my pattern ship. I don't use them on anything else...

I would pin the firewall (personal opinion). I reinforce all ARF firewalls...

I would seal all hinge gaps.

Pull-pull?? I'm not absolute on this, but I believe you will have to mount the rudder servo in back to balance with this engine. Only heavy engines will require mounting rudder servo forward. I guess time will tell.

tukkus

My Feedback: (2)

i just bought a 110 also and im not exactly sure about the 2 fuel dots....i know one is for fueling but does the other one spit fuel out when the tank is full ?

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

sounds good, guess ill be picking up a 16x4w and some more fuel dots and some tees

I'm not sure about the rubber mount either, i'll have to check out the mount with the kit, the shop had the right size sitting around...

Anyone have links to a how to or guide for pinning the firewall? what size/metal pins and how deep?

I thought since the 110 was a lighter motor, at least in comparison to a 140/150/180, I would need more weight towards the front, i'll cross that bridge later

I forget what throttle servos I read people were using, 225's I think, will a 81mg do the job? ~40in/oz

thanks for the help guys

wildnloose

There is a diagram floating around that shows the fuel dots installation. You will need 2 dots and 2 tee's, one for the fuel line and one for the vent. You will have to remove both dots (vent side first to relieve pressure) when refilling (don't worry, you will only forget to do this once before its "streamed" into your brain (8lbs of pressure can shoot a long way)). You fill up until you see fuel coming out of the vent tube. If I find the diagram I will post here.

I always pin with toothpicks.

The hs 81mg will do the job for the throttle servo (I always use the hs55-got that one from Bob in the pattern forum www.rcaerobat.net).

Sorry for the typo on the engine. I obviously meant the opposite (heavier engine will require you mounting the servo forward).

tIANci

I do not think that the F90 is worth flying to meet its potential with anything less than a 16x6 turning at about 9,250 RPM. I am running mine with a YS110 turning the APC 16x6 and the power is just right, I am tempted to go with a YS140. With the YS140 I need not bother to do any mods to overcome the tail heavy problem. The YS140 will also let me turn a 17x6 or 18x6 with total ease.

With my YS110 and stock set up I needed about 6 oz on the nose to get the CG right. Not made any mods yet as I wanted to see how bad it is and others can use it as a referrence.

For my fuel set up its easy. I run with a refueling valve hence I fill up using the refueling valve and the other line is just to a fuel DOT for removal of pressure and to normalise pressure when filling up.

Metal gear servos are preferred for sure because of the large surfaces, but if you fly her like a sports plane then any standard servo will do for sure.

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

I dont see any need to buy double everything.. just in what you want i guess

thevirginian

Hey, emnem79
If you use the YS110, then go with either a APC 16x4W or a 16x6W. I run a Saito100 with a 16x4W and I got plenty of power to spare. Keep the overall weight under 9lbs. Mine came out at 8 lbs 2Oz. I would not put anything but metal geared servos on rudder and ailerons. I use Fut S3305 and at $35 a pop at ServoCity that's a rather inexpensive insurance. Also I used Robart hinges on all tail feathers along with a Sullivan tail wheel. The stock wheel isn't even worth considering. Finally, I left the stock main gear as is but reinforced the mounting board on the inside of the fuse with additional ply and some fiberglass. This bird likes harrier landings. Nylon bolts are not going to last. Also, pinning the firewall is a MUST, believe me. I did not only that but glassed over it with a fine cloth.

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

What size robart hinges are you guys using that are using them? I picked up the 3/16 (50) combo with the jig, I know they'll work for the alerons, but will they be too thick for the elevator and rudder? After taking a second look at DTB's build up pictures I think he used 1/8 size hinges... He also used poly glue, did you use epoxy?

How hard is it to set up the split elevator with a y harness? Another guy told me to get a matchbox for this, will I really need it? It doesnt look that hard to keep the linkages perfectly symmetrical....

Hmm, I think I will probably go with the nylon bolts for now, and then beef it up when i'm ready for harrier landings, which shouldn't be too far off, already got my foamy torque rollin and doin ok harriers... What's a good place to get fiberglass cloth, and should I just use epoxy for that?

thevirginian

emnem,
I don't remember what size hinges I used, but sizewise they are about thre same as the ca-hinges. I used epoxy to glue them in. BTW, epoxy products: www.raka.com is a good source for epoxy and glass.
For the elevator you could use a reversing Y-harness or program your radio with the P-MIX function. I would not physically connect the two elevator halfes together.

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

Up for any one with robarts...

planes comin in today...