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Old 10-09-2002 | 09:35 PM
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Default U-Can-Do-Tips

Thought I would mention (for what's it's worth) a couple
of changes I made to my UCD. 4-40 rods for sure! To help
with the weak stabilizer and large forces from the rudder,
I put struts ( 1/8" brass tube flattened on the ends) from
the top of the fin to the outsides of the stabilizer. The tail
wheel was replaced with the one Sig puts on their Rascal.
It is a new Sig part with the order number SIGSH756. It
required epoxing a ply plate on the bottom of the fuse.
Also painted the inside of the canopy black - looks much
more streamlined and you don't have to buy a pilot. You
might also want to add a hard wood fillet on the front of
the former where wing plugs into. Otherwise, a truly great
A.R.F. in my humble opinion. No, I did not have to add nose
weight after these changes. Balanced at 5" with 700 battery
over the wing using a 91 4 stroke. Do not use the plastic
spinner you get - it will spin and melt. A good choice is the
Great Plains 2-1/4" nylon/alum spinner part #en2046. It
has an aluminum back plate. Truly a great all-around plane.
Old 10-10-2002 | 01:55 AM
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From: Weatherford, OK
Default U-Can-Do-Tips

All righty. Received mine today in perfect condition shipping-wise... no crushed wing tips etc. A little wrinkle here and there in the film, to be expected. Any weight reduction tips? I've got the Saito 100 slated but I'm hearing the masses crying for more power. I have a 15x6 APC with a 16x4 on order.
What about the engine's right thrust line? What difference is there in offset laterally, on a square firewall, versus a few washers and canting the engine at the center line? Know what I'm steppin in? Intuitively, The canted engine is going to give more net offset, no? It appears my firewall is square and I haven't examined it any closer than that. My canopy is clear. Will it dye OK? The pants and retaining method look solid. How is it off grass? Oh, I dislike the name but my kids love it and the cover scheme.

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