miniCAP

My Feedback: (3)

Hey there,

I have a YS 1.10 just itching to go into a plane. I've been thinking about the Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Biplane. Here are my questions:
1. How does it fly?
2. Will the YS be enough engine for it to 3D?

As always, thanks for your replies.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

The YS will be perfect for the ULT. Mine won't 3D with a .90 two stroke. It has two things against it. One the .90 is not enough power. Two the Ailes are a little small for some of the 3D stuff. I guess I am used to the Funtana. The Ales have great authority with speed but could be bigger for harriers. Plus I use a lot of spoileron doing 3D. The small Ailes don't really give you a big difference with the spoilerons. If mine had more power maybe it would not be an issue. Lastly make sure to use two ELEV servos. Mine is the kit with one servo on a splitter. It's difficult to get a lot of throw with this setup. When I built the plane 3D was unheard of.



David

tukkus

My Feedback: (2)

I Don't know how it flies cause i havent seen one but it's a 7.5-8.5 lbs. plane so the YS 1.10 is perfect for it.

I'm thinking about buying one but with a satio 1.20 on it ...it's all built and ready to go

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

It was my best flying plane at the time, and all I fly now get compared to it. It has some issues that could be easily remedied during the build, but the 110 would be perfect. Mine was a little heavy at 9 lbs with an ASP 1.08. The aileron issue is easy to fix as you build it. Just add some stock to the leading edge of the ailerons, or build up some big light ones. I would do everything in my power to lighten the ship up. When the wing loading goes up, they land fast. I have considered building another one as light as possible and using a tower hobbies 75 for power. It could weigh less than 8 lbs if you are carefull. I wasn't into 3D back then either, but it did do really nice high alpha knife edge and rolls. It would drop a wing if you yanked on it too hard, just like the F90 likes to do. My buddy has an airframe that he'd like to sell me cheap. I think I may just do it. For $50, I can't go wrong.

miniCAP

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the tips so far. I considered the kit for reasons like building larger ailerons with two aileron servos vs just one like the kit calls for. Also, I was planning on putting in dual elevator servos (Hitec minis) in the rear. Of course, I plan on making it as light as possible. My buddy scaled the plans down and made one for a YS .63, his flies great.

But more than all that, I just wanted a nice flying plane for my 1.10, I stink at 3D anyway, but I'm learning. Thanks again.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

If your seriously considering building this plane from the kit do yourself a favor and pick up a copy of the Higley's book titled Bipes. There is A LOT of great info about thsi particular kit and simple mods that remedy some of the kits weak points. It;s well worth the price.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I should have mentioned the two Aile servos. That is the only way to build one. I have mounted them a few different ways. If your interested I can describe them when I have more time.



David

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

I built mine per plans the first time and the aileron servo broke free in flight on about the 5th flight. It really should never have been an option. I was able to fly it back with the rudder, but it didn't land on the runway. The cabane area needs some attention to beef up the mount points in the fuselage. Other than that, I would think about widdling away some of the lite ply in the aft fuse and perhaps doing the turtle deck out of balsa and formers, rather than the thin hardwood that the kit uses. Putting an airfoiled horizontal tail on it would also be nice. You could make it thicker, thus relieving the need for flying wires.

miniCAP

My Feedback: (3)

These tips are great! Please keep em coming. I have admired the Ultimate for a while now and I think it could be a sweet plane, especially with the mods that have been mentioned. Fure sure I was going to make lightening holes wherever possible. I wish I could see the kit contents somewhere, but oh well. Anywho, I'm keeping a list of all the suggestions so thanks. I htink the cowl is made out of ABS plastic. If that's the case, I may use it as a mold and make a fiberglass cowl, should be a little lighter than plastic. Don't know how tall the landing gear is, might have to get some longer ones for the YS, could maybe get some carbon gear. Oh yeah, what prop do you guyz think I should use for a YS 1.10 on this plane? I was thinking maybe a 16x6?

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, 16-6, and that may require a taller gear. I used 15-6 on mine with no problems, but it did set very low, and the bottom wing is low to the ground. The plane needs a carbon fiber gear to be done right. I used the stock gear, but many people hate the wire gear. Just do everything you can to make it lighter than stock.