Proven Prop Size and CG Location for Kangke cap1.20 with OS1.60.
07-21-2005, 10:47 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Clifton,
NJ
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Proven Prop Size and CG Location for Kangke cap1.20 with OS1.60.
Hey there,
Looking for some tried and proven prop and CG measurements for this model. I will be testing several, but I figure it's been beat to death by now on this model and one of you may save me the time. A good place to start would be nice.
Thanks,
ticotel
Looking for some tried and proven prop and CG measurements for this model. I will be testing several, but I figure it's been beat to death by now on this model and one of you may save me the time. A good place to start would be nice.
Thanks,
ticotel
07-22-2005, 08:29 AM
#2
RE: Proven Prop Size and CG Location for Kangke cap1.20 with OS1.60.
I've read the entire thread on the OS 1.60fx. The best prop that I read was the Mejzlik 18x6 or 18x8. The 18x6 will rev up a little better around 9000. The 18x8 around 8500.
For 3D the best prop hands down is the APC 18x6W but it flies slow. If you want more speed the 18x6 or 18x8 are better. The Menz 18x6 would be good as well. The wood props are the lightest which is what I prefer. I have this same CAP232 with a Moki 1.80 and I can't imagine a better engine in the world for this ARF. It's just perfect power for it. Your weight will probably be around 13 pounds plus and ounce or so with that engine. Mine is 14 pounds with the Moki 1.80. The ARF might be slightly underpowered with the OS 1.60 from what I've heard from a guy who tired it and the Saito 180. That's why I went up to the Moki.
The CG is 5 inches on mine. It's perfect for me. I could go a little further back but it does good flat spins and hovers very well like this. It does all the 3D stuff very well. Tumbles are very good with this CAP. It's an awesome ARF IMO, just a little heavy but makes up for it with quality and how well it flies. One thing I did was to move the tank as far back as I could. It is butted against the sero tray right now which makes it about 5 inches in front of the CG. I used a Perry pump to keep the fuel going. It flies much better this way but setting up glow engines on the CG is kind of a pain. The engines always need some kind of pump or regulator. The pumps is tweaky and the regulator is bullet proof. Your engine likes the pump better from what I've read here. The Moki likes the Cline.
For 3D the best prop hands down is the APC 18x6W but it flies slow. If you want more speed the 18x6 or 18x8 are better. The Menz 18x6 would be good as well. The wood props are the lightest which is what I prefer. I have this same CAP232 with a Moki 1.80 and I can't imagine a better engine in the world for this ARF. It's just perfect power for it. Your weight will probably be around 13 pounds plus and ounce or so with that engine. Mine is 14 pounds with the Moki 1.80. The ARF might be slightly underpowered with the OS 1.60 from what I've heard from a guy who tired it and the Saito 180. That's why I went up to the Moki.
The CG is 5 inches on mine. It's perfect for me. I could go a little further back but it does good flat spins and hovers very well like this. It does all the 3D stuff very well. Tumbles are very good with this CAP. It's an awesome ARF IMO, just a little heavy but makes up for it with quality and how well it flies. One thing I did was to move the tank as far back as I could. It is butted against the sero tray right now which makes it about 5 inches in front of the CG. I used a Perry pump to keep the fuel going. It flies much better this way but setting up glow engines on the CG is kind of a pain. The engines always need some kind of pump or regulator. The pumps is tweaky and the regulator is bullet proof. Your engine likes the pump better from what I've read here. The Moki likes the Cline.
