I just bought a U-Can-Do 3D .46, but i havent finished purchasing the required hardware for it. I just wanted to get some feedback on the setup I plan on using to see if there may be better alternatives out there. So here it is:

Saito .82 w/ Perry VP20 Pump
6 x Futaba S9451 Digital Metal Gear Servos (97oz @ .13s @ 4.8V)
Futaba 1.5" Aluminum Servo arms for control surfaces
Futaba 1" Aluminum servo arm for throttle
Hydrimax 1650mah 4.8v RX Pack
Futaba 8UAF
Tru Turn 2.5" Wide Spinner
APC 15x4W 3D Prop


My only real question is whether or not the 1.5" Futaba servo arms are too much. They are 1.5" to the first hole, so about 2" to the outside hole ( http://www.futaba-rc.com/parts/futm1980.html ). The metal gear 9451's should have enough toque to work with them - I just dont know if i need arms that long, or if the 1" ers will get the job done. I dont want to have to crank my EPA's all the way down and lose all that resolution if i can get maximum throw out of the 1" arms.

I know the spinner is the wrong size, but there is no way im going to get a 15x4W to work with a 2" spinner, there just wouldnt be any spinner left. It actually doesnt look that bad up against the cowl. I am also aware that a 9451 is overkill for the throttle, im just tired of the slow response of the 3151 SX that i have on my Matt Chapman Cap 580 throttle, so i figure ill just get 6 of the same servos.

IMHO I would say you won't need that long of servo arms. I also don't see the need for the pump with the Saito 82, my 82 ran great without a pump. You also might want to consider replacing the stock pushrods for all the control surfaces, there's allot of flex in the stock rods. Other than that I'd say it looks great.

Ditto 9105 on the pump. I had a 82 in mine and it didn't need a pump. Also, I think that is too much prop for the 82. I think you'll want to go with 14x4W. And the servo arms are over kill. I used the Dubro heavy duty arms, 1 long on the rudder, 4 medium on ailerons and elevators. I also used a mini servo (HS85) on the throttle, to keep things light. I used carbon fiber pushrods with titanium ends from Central Hobbies to stiffen everything up. Also, do all you can to keep it light. This plane can gain weight on you if you're not careful.
Come join us on the UCD46 thread, good people over there with tons of knowledge and great attitude.
Thanks,
Barry

The saito 82 on my cap 580 bogs when vertical for extended periods of time, but screams when straight and level all day long. Its not too lean, any richer and the motor chockes on itself. Im hoping the pump will eliminate this problem.

Also, with the 15x4W the motor seems to rev like crazy, i think the 14x4 would overrev the engine, but ill have to give one a try and tach it to see how it works out. Carbon fiber rods are a great idea, ill probably make some of my own using bulk CF rods, solder clevises, and epoxy.

My 82 was turning a 14x4W at 9600 rpms.
For quick and easy carbon control rods, you can get the carbon fiber tubing that is the perfect size to slide on to the stock 2.56 push rods. This really stiffens up the stock rods. The only trick is that you have to measure, cut, and install the carbon tube onto the rod before you bend the end that attaches to the servo horn because if you get the right size, it's a tight enough fit that the tube won't slide over the threaded end of the 2.56 rod

You would fit right in with the crowd at my field, flying UCD .46's with 8411's all around and a digital mg mini on the throttle. They are all using the OS Hype .50 Heli engine on 30% nitro. They also went with upgraded aluminum cotrol horns to go with the carbon fiber push rods . . . etc. All of us are using the Dubro heavy duty composite servo arms, don't cost anything like the ones you propose using, lighter and just as strong for this little airplane.

The pump regulator may make this engine real fussy, but it should allow you to optimize the lean on the upper end on the engine. Sometimes the pumps tend to mess up the midrange and make the bottom end difficult. Let us know how it works out. I would also have to agree the APC 14X4 would be the prop of choice for the .82. I used a 15X4 on mine with a .91 and it was okay, but nothing to write home about. Went back to the 2 stroke route for that fast rev up and less torque effect on verticals under acceleration.

You will love this airplane, like they said, keep it light and it will reward you, get it heavy and you loose some of those great 3D attributes.

Thats a great idea, i was looking into redoing the linkages out of a smaller carbon and using epoxy and solder clevises, but your approach is much easier, and probably stiffer as well. That is definitely the route i will take, as it only requires me to buy some CF for $5 instead of CF and all new linkages etc.

As for the aluminum arms, they are more for show then anything (gotta make those $90 servos look cool ). I am the store manager of a hobbytown USA, so price really isnt an issue for me, as i get excellent pricing on everything. I think i am also going to shy away from that 9451 on the throttle, and just use a quick digital mini-servo like the futaba s9650. Its nearly the same speed with half the torque, but its less then half the weight.

a little something else is you might as well take a hammer and bust off the gear block and buff it up some, orrrr you can wait till it breaks off to do it it will break clean and it wont take long, we've all been there and it isnt nothing to fix, sounds like your gonna have a greeeeeat plane.[8D]

I THINK ALL WE ARE CRAZY, BUT I LIKE THEES

IT´S A UCD .46 AND OUR SET UP IT´S LIKE A BIGGER PLANE, BUT I LIKE THEES

A FEW YEARS AGO I HAVE A DIRTY PATTERN WITH OS .60 FP......... TODAY I PUT A OS 120 4 STROCKE, BUT I LIKE THEES

I THINK WE ARE CCRRAAZZYY[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]


BUT I LIKE THEES[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]

me too EL ****CANO